Work Sharp - WS3000 Wood Tool Sharpener Unset

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Work Sharp

Work Sharp - WS3000 Wood Tool Sharpener Unset

Regular price: €466,00
Sale price: €466,00
Regular price: ~~€770,00~~
Unit price: per

Save 39% (€304,00)

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14 Days Returns

Description

Fast, no setup time, repeatability
Precise - glass wheel/precision sharpening port - air cooling system
Versatility - complete system from sharpening to honing
Ease of use - dry system - no mess!
Built to last - 1/5th HP motor, cast aluminum top and sheet metal housing.

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Customer Reviews

Wobbly with noise that gets louder... I had to fix it myselfOk it is cheaper than Tormek, but it is still some money. I got mine yesterday. Turned it on. After a few seconds, the noise changed and became louder. Searched other peoples experience and started seeing the same issues being reported. Glass wobbles and it was worse before I fixed it. The plastic base piece has feet but it is not a flat surface, it rocks. I had to tear it apart completely. From the way it is built you can tell, it is a piece of garbage. All these machines are similar, basically an electric motor for the most part. Now, the shaft of a proper motor will have bearings on either side. This thing doesn t. It has some kind of weird swivel. So, it doesn t even have cheap bearings, NONE. The coil windings look equallly miserable. Now, after seeing all this, I was ready to send it back. Then, I realized the belt that connect the motor to the gear mechanism (if there is any) wasn t fit properly. You see this the last because it is all the way at the bottom. As I was assembling it back, I held the belt with my two index fingers and slipped the shaft back in. When, I closed it up, there is still noise when running but not the strange loud one, more of a constant noise. The glass wobbles less. The bottom is still not flat, although I saw some plastic fins that can be trimmed. I spend 3 hours on this. I understand you need to fix things sometimes, but being in this shape right out of the box, with these components tells me there is serious quality control issues. I will keep this thing since I am a hobbiest abut I can see the day I may need to pay the money and get something better. I don t trust this thing.1WS3000 Sharpens well, but they are abandoning the product The WS3000 does a great job at sharpening tools, but they are abandoning the product and discontinuing all the accessories that make this tool useful for me. I ended up returning this because I'd rather commit to one sharpening system and not have multiple sharpening systems just because I can't sharpen larger plane blades or my lathe tools on this. 1Fine Once the Missing Part was InstalledI've had my Work Sharp WS3000 for about a month, and the results I got with it have been disappointing. It had an annoying chirping sound that got louder over time, and it produced inconsistent skew angles on the same piece when changing from one abrasive to another. When the chirping became so loud that it was interfering with hearing the sound of the tool against the abrasive, I called the company's tech support line. The rep was very polite, and sent me instructions for changing the drive belt tension. That seemed to work...for a few minutes, then the chirp was back, louder than ever. It sounded like a dry bearing to me, but further communications with tech support suggested several things that I might be doing wrong in using the machine. On my second attempt at tensioning the drive belt, I flipped the machine over, and the platter spindle fell out on my workbench. A groove on the bottom of the spindle was evidence that it should have been retained by a circlip of some type. On my next communication with tech support, the rep decided that I needed to send my machine in for a replacement. My contention was that the problem could likely be solved by simply acquiring an appropriate circlip and installing it. My request for clip specifications was ignored, and I was again encouraged to return the machine. Companies don't seem to understand that customers don't spend this kind of money to be inconvenienced by their return process and a significant wait for a replacement. Internal procedures are more important than customer satisfaction. My solution was to disassemble the machine (it's not rocket science), inspect for other damage or obvious missing parts, then go to my local hardware store, purchase a suitable circlip, and install it in the machine. Upon reassembly, the WS3000 performed just as intended and runs without a single chirp. The cost of the repair was 40 cents, and it tool no more time than packing up my machine and taking it to UPS for shipment back to the manufacturer. Now that the machine has its full complement of parts and is properly lubed and adjusted, it does a nice job of sharpening chisels. The Work Sharp abrasives are a little slow to work their magic on old plane blades made of 40s and 50s era hardened steel, but they make quick work of modern steels, especially chisel edges. It's a fine machine and sharpening system. I've even ordered a set of DMT discs for it. However, a little more emphasis on quality control would be welcome.3Indispensible - razor sharp mirrorAbout 10 years now with my WS3000. I feel blessed every time I use it. For delicate situations, the chisel of choose always gets 3 swipes on the 6000 microbevel. Then I shave a little hair off my arm and am ready to go. After heavy use I flatten an polish the back of chisel from 250 to 6000. Then I run it on the leather hone. Then I start at the chisels set angle and sharpen from 250 to 6000, then give it a touch to the microbevel at 6000. PERFECTION!It has developed a moderate squealing sound when running but continues to do the job.If I am cutting mortises I might not take it down to the polishing pads. My only "complaint" would be that the abrasives are so effective - from 400 grit up it is difficult to determine if they are "clogged" and need to be cleaned. They continue to work. The pads are not inexpensive and they keep working, but I cannot really assess when they need to be replaced.One word of warning the leather honing pad from about 7 years ago, this may have been corrected by now? The pad is too thick and if you place it on the machine as you do the typical paper pads, the wheel cannot spin. It will only work with the leather side up. The correct size nylon washer could likely fix this but i have never attempted this. Truthfully, with the 6000 grit pad, the honing pad may not even be needed, but I feel like it takes any possible burs, etc and makes it just a little more like a mirror finish.5The real problem is the customer, not the machine!You may wish to hold onto your hard earned money when it comes to this product. It looks like WorkSharp continues to struggle with some quality control issues when it comes to the WS3000, and has been since 2009.The first unit I purchased was returned due to plate wobble. The replacement unit showed up and it had the same issue. Refund time! I emailed their CEO. First their Customer Support representative tells me that it's normal, and people worry unnecessarily. Then the CEO, Matthew Bernard, emails me. His response "Sorry to hear that you aren t satisfied with our products, not every product is perfect for every customer. You are certainly entitled to be frustrated about the experience." (blink) (Blink) (Blank Stare) :-O He blames the customer! Nice!1Useful, good quality tool that does what it is supposed toThis review is of the Work Sharp WS3000 Wood Tool Sharpener. It is a portable, bench-mounted electrically operated tool oriented first and foremost to doing a good job of sharpening wood cutting tools have flat, chiseled blades, e.g. wood chisels, planer irons , etc. It can also be used for free-hand sharpening of various tools, and also does a good job with helping you to manually sharpen wood lathe chisels/tools of various shapes.At its core, this tool consists of an electric motor (120VAC, 3-prong North American style power plug on the end of the power cord) driving a turntable and a fan that provides cooling air. Various wheels can be attached to the turntable using a threaded top knob into a center hole; various abrasive disks (or just abrasives on certain wheels) are attached with removable adhesives to the wheels, and the tool to be sharpened is then brought into contact with the spinning adhesive surface in various ways. Some wheels will have adhesive on both top and bottom surfaces, while other wheels will have adhesive on only the top or the bottom surfaces.The primary sharpening method involves placing a flat chisel, or planer iron (blade) into an aluminum sharpening port , which holds the chisel at the correct angle relative to the abrasive surface, and using an adjustable fence holds the chisel secure in a sideways direction, preventing unwanted rotation, and using the abrasive bottom surface of the port removes the burr from the bottom of the chisel as you sharpen it, and finally acts like a heat sink to keep the chisel cool during sharpening. The motor s fan blows cooling air over the fins on the bottom of this aluminum sharpening port. The angle of the port can be adjusted to any of four detented positions: 20 , 25 , 30 , and 35 ; this is done by pulling a spring loaded lever to release the detent lock, and then moving the port until it snaps into position in one of the other three angle positions (the numerical angle appears in a small window). All you need to do is follow the plunge and pull movement several times; PLUNGE means sliding the chisel forward in the slot created on the sharpening port by the fence until the end of the chisel has contacted the spinning abrasive wheel for a couple of seconds, then PULLing it back about one inch so that it can be off the abrasive for another couple of seconds (allowing it to cool slightly) and simultaneously allowing the abrasive surface of the port to remove the bottom side burr from the chisel edge. Repeat this plunge and pull until the sound made during the plunge diminishes to near silence.The tool comes with two (2) glass wheels and one (1) slotted plastic Edge-View wheel, along with a set of abrasive disks for the glass and Edge-View wheels. The included disks for the glass wheels include a pair of each of four different grades/grits; 120, 400, 1000, and Micro Mesh 3600. There are also disks in three different grades for the slotted Edge-View wheel. Finally, one replacement abrasive pad is included for the sharpening port (for de-burring). All of the abrasive disks come with a pre-punched center hole, and pre-punched slots for the Edge View versions. All abrasive disks have a self-adhesive backing, with protective paper you peel off first. The disks are attached to the wheels by curving them into a tight U shape, and aligning the center hole with that of the wheel, pressing down the bottom of the U until it starts to stick to the wheel, then carefully rolling the sides of the U down onto the wheel surface such that air bubbles can escape. The adhesive is not too strong, so you can easily peel off worn out disks for replacement.For a damaged, very dull, and/or nicked chisel blade, you will need to start with the 120 grit wheel, just to remove the boogered up metal. Then you progress through the grades, 400, 1000, finally ending with honing using the 3600. For occasional touch-up of basically sharp edges, you can skip the coarser grades.For those folks who like the tradition of doing a final honing using a leather strop, Work Sharp sells a special wheel with a leather top.Some people prefer to make their own wheels for this machine, using MDF circles that they cut out themselves, and either stick on the adhesive disks, or apply abrasive paste to directly. You can also make your own abrasive disks from regular sandpaper, and affix in the manner desired.A normal sharpening operation, from a rough blade to a very sharp and ready to use one, typically would involve:- First wheel, coarse (120) grit side down, with the back side of the chisel laid flat on the top of the wheel to smooth that side (presumably you placed the two more abrasive disks on one glass wheel and the two less abrasive disks on the other glass wheel), so the 400 grit side will be facing up for this step.- Move the chisel to the sharpening port and do the Plunge & Pull, which will be against the 120 grit abrasive on the bottom of the wheel.- Flip the wheel over and do the Plunge & Pull against the 400 grit abrasive on the bottom of the wheel.- Change glass wheels, with the 1000 grit side up, and touch up the back of the chisel.- Flip the wheel over, and do the Plunge & Pull against the 1000 grit bottom surface.- Flip the wheel over, and do the Plunge & Pull honing against the 3600 Micro Mesh 3600 abrasive on the bottom of the wheel.- Flip the wheel over again and do a final honing of the back side of the chisel on the top of the wheel.For free-hand sharpening, there is a raised tool rest along one side of the turntable, and you can rest the tool of your choice on the rest and then lower the edge onto the top side of an abrasive wheel.For sharpening irregular or curved tools, such as those used on wood lathes, you can use the Edge-View wheel. In this case, you work from the rear of the machine, not using either the sharpening port or the tool rest, and bring edge of the tool up from underneath the wheel, against its abrasive underside. Because both the wheel and the abrasive disk are slotted, the spinning wheel looks mostly invisible, so you can look down and see the work surface of the tool as you sharpen it, and thus can visualize what you are doing and how the tool s edge is coming along in its sharpening process. I find it useful to have good downward facing lighting over the Work Sharp while doing this. It is also beneficial to cover the entire edge area of the chisel with black Sharpie marker, so you can more easily see when you have abraded away areas of the cutting surface.Work Sharp also sells a number of accessories, one of which turns it into a belt sander for sharpening knife blades. I find that it is important to secure the machine to a table or bench top, because you don t want it slipping sideways when you are trying to sharpen a tool.I have had very good results with this tool so far, and have rescues several badly abused wood chisels and a couple dull wood lathe chisels using it. It seems well designed and solidly built, with many metal parts.Footnote: This tool is a product of the Darex company in Ashland, Oregon, which is family owned and operated, and in business for over 45 years. Their website says that all of their products are designed and manufactured in their Ashland facility. I have several of their products under the Work Sharp and Drill Doctor brands, and so far I have found them to have good customer service using their own personnel, as opposed to a remotely located call center; I think this should be applauded.4Great wood tool sharpening system. I was worried at first, but this really made it easy I am so impressed with the entire system. I have had this for some time now, and I am so happy with this system for my lathe chisels. The system is pretty well thought out for sure. When I first received this blade Sharpening System, I thought the speed and power of the wheel was going to be an issue. Nope. Not at all. In fact, I think it is a perfect speed for the way this system is engineered.I now have my lathe blades so sharp, they cut my arm hairs. That means less sanding for me, reducing my sandpaper use. Heck the blades are so sharp, when I do a wood project I am coloring on the lathe, I simply hit with a 150 grit and then apply my dye stain from the 5 color wood dye kit :) I couldn't be happier! You guys ROCK! Thank you for this great system, and making it much easier to sharpen lathe knives. A tip of the hat to the engineers on this. You really nailed it 5This is worth the moneyOkay here s an honest review of this item. I do not work for this company or get discounts, etc. A little background first on me to give you a starting point for evaluation of this review: I only started wood working 3 years ago. I have no prior experience whatsoever. During this past 3 years, I have experienced the need for sharp chisels. I ve tried stones for sharpening, including the diamond ones. My ability to sharpen a chisel or block plane could be best categorized as a masterfully pathetic disaster. Suffice it to say, I have three sets of chisels, why? Because it was easier to buy a new set then sharpen the old ones. If you are like me and cannot spend the time or are incapable of sharpening a chisel or plane iron without ruining it, then YOU NEED THIS product. I know its expensive, but this is worth it. I now have three sets of good chisels (not great-because I already kind of messed them up on the stones).Now as to the product itself: Set up is easy. You can begin sharpening within ten minutes. Use of the system is equally as easy in most respects. You can find videos on youtube that show the tool being used. When you see the videos and reviews, if you re like me, you see them cutting their arm hair with the chisel afterwards and think there s no way I can get my chisel that sharp. WRONG! Even with my inexperience and lack of skill, I was able to work through the discs and get a mirror finish, micro bevel edge, and shave some arm hair (not sure who thought that was a good way to demonstrate sharpness) within 10 minutes per chisel.Now the reason this did not get 5 stars: The tool is NOT ideal for flattening the backs of chisels of any width. Most importantly, DO NOT, try to flatten the back of narrower chisels. I ve ruined my smaller mortise chisels trying to flatten them. What happens is you have to carefully lay the chisel flat on the wheel (while it is turning) and ensure that the chisel stays flat. This is not an easy task to do, but ultimately it only takes a moment on the machine to round a square edge (mortise chisel) or grind a gouge into the back/sides of the small chisels. Even with the fact that the machine ruined my narrower chisels, I still give this 4 stars. I know now not to even try it. If you have some you want to practice on and feel you can get better at it, go for it. I recommend you use your stone to keep the back/edges flat and then use machine to sharpen the chisel edge itself. Also a quick note on my block plane iron, it was easy to sharpen and it was pulling long shavings in no time. The design and ease of use is worth the money and will (if you re like me) bring life into your old chisels.Also, it would be nice if the system had a case that fit all the accessories. Since it doesn t, I have to keep mine in a box. LOOK do not buy a stone holding on to the past ways of doing things. If your blade gets dull, you can pull this out, put on the right grit wheel and have a new, sharp edge in a few minutes. As always, take it for what its worth.4One StarNote the manufacturer no longer provides the tool bar extension, which to use most jigs.1Unbelievably easy to useI've been sharpening hand tools by hand for over 60 years and always thought I did a pretty good job. One chisel sharpened on this machine showed how badly my bevel had been. I should have known that anything made by the Drill Doctor people would be well engineered. I have considered a Tormek or something similar but did not want to spend $700 on something I would only use occasionally. For less than $200 I got a machine that was ready to use right out of the box. I have already ordered a bunch of replacement discs and plan to make a leather stropping disc.My buddy who has the same machine suggests the wide blade attachment but I have almost no tools that wide to justify another $70 expenditure. Also I'll pass on the belt sanding attachment as I have a stand alone belt sander.One suggestion from another reviewer is to write the abrasive grit size on the front of the disc as the backs are not visible when you have one on each side. A good idea that I will use.This is an addendum on Feb 3, 2019. I did purchase the wide blade attachment and find this makes the machine even better. A word of caution is that the manufacturer has stopped producing this accessory so move quickly.I have also built a stand for the machine to which I am attaching the Tormek tool holding accessories. Sorry I don't have a photo but I stole the idea from a YouTube video on the WS3000 by "Stumpy Nubs". His video and several others are well worth watching. Stumpy used MDF and I used 1/2 inch Baltic Birch.5Quick and EasyI woodwork as a hobby but really don't like to spend hours in the shop sharpening chisels and plane irons. I've invested, over time, lots of water stones and jigs to make my sharpening more accurate and efficient but still spent up to a day working through chisels after a project. So I invested in this sharpener and just spent 2 hours in the shop and went through every chisel I have, either regrinding a bevel or creating a micro-bevel on edges that were not damaged (along with 2 block plane irons). My test is to shave end grain on walnut and I'm telling you now that not only after saving me hours in sharpening mode the edges are now razor sharp. Great machine! My only issue was trying to sharpen a shoulder plane iron .because of the method of registration of the iron to the machine reference it is impossible to do, at least on my Stanley shoulder plane iron. Otherwise this was and will be a great investment for me.5

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Work Sharp - WS3000 Wood Tool Sharpener Unset

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Work Sharp - WS3000 Wood Tool Sharpener Unset

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Work Sharp - WS3000 Wood Tool Sharpener Unset

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Customer Reviews

Work Sharp - WS3000 Wood Tool Sharpener Unset

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