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    Arlington LV1-10 Low Voltage Mounting Bracket, 1-Gang, Black, 10-Pack
    Arlington LV1-10 Low Voltage Mounting Bracket, 1-Gang, Black, 10-Pack
    Load image into Gallery viewer, Arlington LV1-10 Low Voltage Mounting Bracket, 1-Gang, Black, 10-Pack
    Load image into Gallery viewer, Arlington LV1-10 Low Voltage Mounting Bracket, 1-Gang, Black, 10-Pack
    • Load image into Gallery viewer, Arlington LV1-10 Low Voltage Mounting Bracket, 1-Gang, Black, 10-Pack
    • Load image into Gallery viewer, Arlington LV1-10 Low Voltage Mounting Bracket, 1-Gang, Black, 10-Pack
    Arlington Industries

    Arlington LV1-10 Low Voltage Mounting Bracket, 1-Gang, Black, 10-Pack

    4.5
    €45,00
    €45,00
    €74,00
    Sold out
    Save 39% (€29,00)
    You can't add more than 500 quantity.
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    • Tracked Shipping on All Orders
    • 14 Days Returns

    Description

    • Mounting bracket has Oval holes that allow final shifting and straightening
    • Easy to install, for mounting low voltage wires(phone, internet, TV, video)
    • Adjusts to fit various wall thickness, the bracket wings secure when mounting screws are tightened
    • Bracket is its own template for cut-out, trace the bracket then cut the hole
    • Horizontal or vertical mounting, installs faster and costs less than metal brackets, UL/CSA Listed
    • Designed to mount wall plates flush
    • Adjusts to fit 1/4-inch to 1-inch thick wall board, paneling, or drywall
    • Horizontal or vertical mounting
    • UL/CSA listed 1-gang, 10-pack
    • Mounting brackets offer specially designed screw holes that deliver a better looking, easy to install job
    Read more

    Shipping and Returns

    • We offer tracked shipping on all orders. Tracking information will be shared as soon as the order is dispatched.
    • Please check the delivery estimate before adding a product to the cart. This is displayed for every product on the website.
    • Available shipping methods and charges will be displayed at the time of checkout, depending on your exact location.
    • All customers are entitled to a return window of 14 days, starting from the date of delivery of the product(s).
    • Customers are advised to read our return policy for details of the return process, eligibility, refunds as well as cancellations or exchanges.
    • In case of any issues or concerns about Shipping or Returns, please contact us and we will be happy to help.

    Customer Reviews

    Great for standard faceplates, not for DecoraI imagine these are great to use for standard faceplates with built-in connectors. However, there are no threads for "decora"-style faceplates. There is just one hole on each side above/below the connector insert threads. While I'm glad there are at least holes for the faceplate screws to go, I imagine if they had the foresight for the holes they could have gone ahead and made them threaded. At the moment, I just have the faceplate screws driven through the holes directly into the drywall. This works with longer screws, but it means I couldn't use the decorative screws that came with the faceplate.Nonetheless, these are a great invention and I highly recommend them rather than going through the hassle of putting in a standard box or screwing the faceplate directly into the wall.Decora Insert: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001AOY1IMDecora Faceplate: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000U3I39C 4Good simple product which works perfectly for keystone face platesI used these to install all of the low voltage wiring around my house (Ethernet, phone, coax, and media cables) in conjunction with Shaxon keystone wall plates. These work perfectly as existing work 1gang boxes and got the job done pretty easily, especially since the inside of the frame serves as the template for cutting.At first I felt they were a bit too flimsy in my hands, but once they were well secured into the wall they felt better. One customer posted a photo of a ~5lbs wall speaker hung on one of these plates...I am not sure I would trust it to that extent, but its certainly suited for simple keystones and media wall plates. My concern is that even if the hole is perfectly cut in the wall, you only have about a 3mm plastic flange to press against the wall and that's being pulled on by two small plastic clips. I do not know if there is a weight rating for this mounting plate, but if I were going to hang a speaker I wouldn't rely on this, I would use separate drywall anchors or a more stout remodel gang box.All and all, they are a pretty simple product and for the price they do their job well.Here are the supplies I used to built my media infrastructure:Keystone plates = http://amzn.com/B006IKGHVC and http://amzn.com/B006IKHAZYBlank Keystone = http://amzn.com/B006IKH0EAKeystone Mounting Bracket = http://amzn.com/B003JQL0S8Cat6 Keystone = http://amzn.com/B004D5PFGWHDMI Keystone = http://amzn.com/B0039L3P86Coax Keystone = http://amzn.com/B003099HOICat6 Cable = http://amzn.com/B0049KV52E (the cable this review is written in)Coax Cable = http://amzn.com/B0069F4H3GCoax Right Angle Adapters = http://amzn.com/B00DUW3Y7GWall Mounted patch panel = http://amzn.com/B000HZES42Cat6 Crimp connectors = http://amzn.com/B00BS92DCAStrain Relief Boots = http://amzn.com/B000I20B86Crimp Tool = http://amzn.com/B0000AZK4GPunch Down Tool = http://amzn.com/B0072K1QHMCoax Crimp Tools = http://amzn.com/B003J7YOTO 5Excellent productThese are the same concept as a "remodel box" but without the confined space of the box which is unnecessary on low voltage wiring. I had purchased the bendable tab type mount from the local box store which was completely worthless. The ONLY way for it to secure was to cut a perfect hole and even then, if you had to access it past the initial install or unplug something from it, it loosened up.This bracket gets the job done. I've seen complaints that its hard to mark out? Don't understand that one. Look, I suppose a template would be nice, but not a deal breaker. Its too easy to just measure your outside edges of the recess, plumb with a pocket level, cut hole, install bracket, check work with pocket level, tighten tabs securely via the screw, and DONE! :) AND, the hole doesn't have to be exactly perfect, you have a little room for adjustment to square out the bracket if needed. 5SimplicityI've used the Carlon Bracket, the Caddy MLPS bracket and a couple of others. As a pro electrician, I do like that the Caddy is all metal; the 6/32 screws you use to attach a plate go in much more easily than into virgin plastic holes. However, the MPLS always requires several minutes of swearing when trying to find the hole for the "clamp-screw" (which you have to find blindly inside the wall).The Arlington is simple. Trace INSIDE the frame opening and cut your drywall OUTSIDE the line. You've just made a simple rectangular hole. Now tighten the screws. Done.The Arlington also has a slightly deeper range of clamping - good for walls up to 1" thick. If you encounter buttonboard or double-sheetrock, you'll need that extra depth. If you encounter lath-and-plaster, of course, it may or may not be over 1" thick. In that case, the MPLS will serve you better. You'll also need a router or vibratory saw to make a clean cut (or a small drill bit, something to chisel with, and lot of patience). 5No Returns Policy But Excellent ProductThese worked great and are of high quality. A great alternative to the standard gang box. Very easy to install, sturdy construction and holds firmly. Just cut the hole, insert these and tighten two screws. No need to hold the latches either if you've never used one before. As you tighten, the latch flips into a fixed position and stays there.You can over-tighten them and strip the plastic so just be careful not to use too much force. They're are a little expensive too. I only needed 3 but for about a dollar more I bought a pack of ten. Really, the only negative thing I can say is that when returning another purchase in the same order, I noticed the this item has a no returns policy. Luckily I didn't need to. Otherwise, 5 stars. 4greatAn electrician came to my house and used this in two different places and it worked great.Some other dude made some complaints saying the orange version is better.At the end of the day, it's a molded piece of plastic with holes in it and some adjustable strapping on the back. Honestly, this is exactly what you need. All of these little things will do the trick. 5Much better hardware (Screws) Than Big Box StoreAs a computer and network technician I was looking for an Old Work low voltage box that I could rely on. I used to go to the big box stores and get the similar ones sold there (see pic of orange box), and every time would get frustrated because the ones at the store do not work, as the screws are not matched correctly with the plastic housing and the effect is a hard time getting it to install. I usually strip the head on the screws in order to get it finally installed.I purchased these after reading reviews on how simple they are. After installing just one of them as a test case, I have to say they are correct (see pic). These low voltage boxes install VERY easy to install. Moreover, I really like the way that they are more flush to the wall then the other ones. I can't begin to describe how little effort I had to use to screw the tabs into place as opposed to the other one. My assessment is that Arlington puts much better thought and effort into the screws and plastic housing.VERY GOOD PRODUCT and will continue to purchase these in lieu of the orange ones at big box.Well done Arlington. 5I needed these for a install. Locally with my ...I needed these for a install. Locally with my commercial account I was able to get them cheaper, but these are Still the way to go if you are doing LOW VOLTAGE work. PLEASE .. keep in mind that these are flro LoVo, not 110/220 etc. Follow NEC concerning that aspect.Yes, you CAN use a power driver with these, as well as impact. You just have to use common sense in how tight you drive the screws! They are not head bolts on a a Detroit diesel. ( And even they have torque specs ) .. 4Bleh. Not impressed.I do a lot of low voltage installations and have always been using orange Clarion brackets. I had a job coming up and ended up ordering a 10-pc box of these. Not impressed. Plastic is soft and absence of marking holes is stupid. With Clarion you stick a nail into 4 holes, draw 4 lines and cut with a drywall saw. With these you have to contour internal perimeter, which does not even give you he ability to mark all 4 corners.Will never buy these again. 3Arlington is amazing quality and great priceAmazing quality,what makes this amazing:A.) the boxes are high quality.B.) fits in dry-wall and the hole you cut can be a fraction of an inch small and you can push these into place for a nice tight fit.C.) fits Into wood wall paneling, but you'd need to create a pilot hole with a 1-1/2 inch spade bit. and then cut out the remainder of the hole.what you need to complete this installi.) Measuring tapeii.) Small leveliii.) a Jab saw (i used http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-15-556-Jab-Cushion-Grip/dp/B00002X21W/)Vi.) possibly need a spade bit to start the cut with Jab saw if into wood paneling or the likehow to install:1.) Use a reference measurement either from the corner of the wall or from a power outlet2.) use a magnet or a stud finder, place this anywhere in-between the two studs3.) Find where to make the hole, the top of the Arlington should be an equal distance from the floor as other boxes on any other wall in the house. to find this out without removing a faceplate of any other box, place a faceplate on the Arlington, and measure from the top of another Box on the wall in the room to the top of the Arlington with Faceplate. mark on the wall where the top of the Arlington will be. or where the top of the faceplate is and then subtract the top of the distance from faceplate to Arlington.4.) The reference measurement should be to the center of where you'll place the Arlington, use the level ontop of the Arlington, place face against the wall, level with the level, and at the Height needed from step#3.5.) trace the inside opening of the Arlington with a pencil or pen (i suggest pencil so the marks can be erased if a mistake is made)6.) using the level, make sure the lines create a perfect square / rectangle.7.) using the jab saw cut along the outside edge of the lines you just traced8.) insert Arlington into the hole you just cut9.) your push stick, pull string, and cat6 should be within 2 inches of your hole if your reference measurements are accurate between the ground floor to attic. 9.A.) For push stick, I used: Cen-Tech 65327 3/16" x 11' Fiberglass Wire Running Kit 9.B.) For Pull string, I used: Greenlee 430-500 Poly Fish Line, Tracer Green, 500-Foot 9.C.) For Cat6, I used: [[ASIN:B005UFKJPG Cat6, 550 MHz, UTP, 23AWG, 8C Solid Pure Copper, CMR, 1000ft, White, Bulk Ethernet10.) pull through any line you fished down the wall, and insert the Arlington and screw tight, but don't over tighten11.) connect your connectors to the line and place faceplates on. 5
    Arlington LV1-10 Low Voltage Mounting Bracket, 1-Gang, Black, 10-Pack

    Arlington LV1-10 Low Voltage Mounting Bracket, 1-Gang, Black, 10-Pack

    4.5
    You can't add more than 500 quantity.
    €45,00
    €45,00
    €74,00
    Sold out
    Save 39% (€29,00)