• L Shape 4 Pins Connector 10-pack JACKYLED 10mm Right Angle Corner Solderless Connector 12V 72W Clip for 3528/5050 SMD RGB Fireproof Material 4 conductor LED Strip Lights Strip to Strip (22Pcs Clips)
  • L Shape 4 Pins Connector 10-pack JACKYLED 10mm Right Angle Corner Solderless Connector 12V 72W Clip for 3528/5050 SMD RGB Fireproof Material 4 conductor LED Strip Lights Strip to Strip (22Pcs Clips)
  • L Shape 4 Pins Connector 10-pack JACKYLED 10mm Right Angle Corner Solderless Connector 12V 72W Clip for 3528/5050 SMD RGB Fireproof Material 4 conductor LED Strip Lights Strip to Strip (22Pcs Clips)
  • L Shape 4 Pins Connector 10-pack JACKYLED 10mm Right Angle Corner Solderless Connector 12V 72W Clip for 3528/5050 SMD RGB Fireproof Material 4 conductor LED Strip Lights Strip to Strip (22Pcs Clips)
  • L Shape 4 Pins Connector 10-pack JACKYLED 10mm Right Angle Corner Solderless Connector 12V 72W Clip for 3528/5050 SMD RGB Fireproof Material 4 conductor LED Strip Lights Strip to Strip (22Pcs Clips)
  • L Shape 4 Pins Connector 10-pack JACKYLED 10mm Right Angle Corner Solderless Connector 12V 72W Clip for 3528/5050 SMD RGB Fireproof Material 4 conductor LED Strip Lights Strip to Strip (22Pcs Clips)
  • L Shape 4 Pins Connector 10-pack JACKYLED 10mm Right Angle Corner Solderless Connector 12V 72W Clip for 3528/5050 SMD RGB Fireproof Material 4 conductor LED Strip Lights Strip to Strip (22Pcs Clips)
L Shape 4 Pins Connector 10-pack JACKYLED 10mm Right Angle Corner Solderless Connector 12V 72W Clip for 3528/5050 SMD RGB Fireproof Material 4 conductor LED Strip Lights Strip to Strip (22Pcs Clips)
L Shape 4 Pins Connector 10-pack JACKYLED 10mm Right Angle Corner Solderless Connector 12V 72W Clip for 3528/5050 SMD RGB Fireproof Material 4 conductor LED Strip Lights Strip to Strip (22Pcs Clips)
L Shape 4 Pins Connector 10-pack JACKYLED 10mm Right Angle Corner Solderless Connector 12V 72W Clip for 3528/5050 SMD RGB Fireproof Material 4 conductor LED Strip Lights Strip to Strip (22Pcs Clips)
L Shape 4 Pins Connector 10-pack JACKYLED 10mm Right Angle Corner Solderless Connector 12V 72W Clip for 3528/5050 SMD RGB Fireproof Material 4 conductor LED Strip Lights Strip to Strip (22Pcs Clips)
L Shape 4 Pins Connector 10-pack JACKYLED 10mm Right Angle Corner Solderless Connector 12V 72W Clip for 3528/5050 SMD RGB Fireproof Material 4 conductor LED Strip Lights Strip to Strip (22Pcs Clips)
L Shape 4 Pins Connector 10-pack JACKYLED 10mm Right Angle Corner Solderless Connector 12V 72W Clip for 3528/5050 SMD RGB Fireproof Material 4 conductor LED Strip Lights Strip to Strip (22Pcs Clips)
L Shape 4 Pins Connector 10-pack JACKYLED 10mm Right Angle Corner Solderless Connector 12V 72W Clip for 3528/5050 SMD RGB Fireproof Material 4 conductor LED Strip Lights Strip to Strip (22Pcs Clips)

L Shape 4 Pins Connector 10-pack JACKYLED 10mm Right Angle Corner Solderless Connector 12V 72W Clip for 3528/5050 SMD RGB Fireproof Material 4 conductor LED Strip Lights Strip to Strip (22Pcs Clips)

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MRP: €36,00
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  • SOLID SOLDERLESS CONNECTION: Handy tool for a firmly stable connection,no need to solder.
  • FIREPROOF MATERIAL: Made from fireproof material, high temperature resistance. And the plastic is thick and solid, which is hard to be broken.
  • APPLICATION: Fits all 10mm 3528/5050 wide RGB LED strips. Perfect for LED tape DIY project, compatible with both waterproof and non-waterproof light strips.(Please peel off silicon on the surface around soldering area when installing waterproof strips )
  • EASY TO USE: The L Shape 10mm 4 Pin light strip Connector is easy to install. Simply slot the strip light into connector and clamp the cover (no need to solder). Ideal for right angle corner strip connection.
  • 100% SATISFACTION GUARANTEE: We strive to provide each customer with the highest standard of customer service to ensure you have a pleasant shopping experience. If you have any issues, inquiries or need assistance, please feel free to contact us directly. 30-daymoney-backguaranteeforanyreason, 12-month warranty for quality-related issues.

Customer Reviews

Simon Cowell? It s gonna be a no for me. Imagine taking one connection and magically turning it into 4 loose connections. That s what you get with this product.You know those little blue 3m snap on connectors that allow you to splice into a wire and connect another wire? Yeah, that s not these. The pins that pierce the contact points are tiny and weak. And everything wiggles. It s near impossible to line them up correctly. How impossible you ask? Imagine pooping out the window of a Boeing 747 at 10,000 feet and trying to drop it into the sunroof of a car on the freeway down below going the opposite direction at 100 mph and that should give you some idea of how frustratingly impossible it is to line these connectors up. I can t fully describe how bad an experience awaits those stupidly idealistic enough to purchase this product. I ve done low voltage wiring for decades. Trust me. Get a soldering iron, some 60/40 solder, 22 AWG insulated wire and some RTV silicone do this project the right way, and never try to poop out an airplane window. Sky marshals hate that and it s not pretty.1Good Clean looking connectors5-stars for the price, a clean looking installation. and if you only need 90 degree connection (left or right). These L-connectors makes a nice clean looking installation. Photo-B show the final installation on the LED strip.If you need an angle that is not a straight 90 degree, then a wired connection might be better for you. These L-connector have two piecing pins to prevent the strip from pulling out, making a better secure connection. Other brand just use pressure on the contacts to secure the strip in the connector. Also note that these can be used as a straight connector by inserting the LED strip on both end of the connector without using the L-connect circuit board.After reading all the reviews on this product and other reviews on other brands for LED connectors, it seems that 15% of the reviewers have issue with bad connections via strip not working, cross color, or not all lights working after hooking everything up. After having used these, and initially had a bad connection, I looked at what could be wrong. Then I realized that this is not just a cut, insert, and snap shut the connector process. It will work every time. You need to take the time and do it right. I found it much easier to assemble and test all connections before installation. Test each connection as you add a strip. If doing a room, assemble one corner at a time and test it before sticking it to the wall.After cutting at the proper cut line on the strip, remove the foam adhesive backing on the back side under the copper strips, about a . (photo-1). You should have a very thin strip to insert into the connector. The connector has a thin slot at the end, that the strip is insert in (photo-2). The strip end is not push into the pins from above. While inserting into the slot, push with the copper strips going under the 4 pressure contacts. This may seem simple, but I notice when pushing in, one contact may go above, not under. Photo-3 shows the bottom connect underneath and not making proper contact. After checking that all 4 copper strips are under the pressure contacts on the connector, give it a wiggle to make good contact and make sure it is all the way in. Insert the L-Connector circuit board (verifying connection) and do the same for the connector at the other end. Make sure the (+) side of the strips are connected. Do not snap shut until the connection has been tested.Things to check for a good connection.1) Strip is inserted under the lip2) Copper on strip are under the pressure pin and push all the way in. Wiggle to make a good connection3) Do the same for the L-connector circuit board4) (+) are aligned all the way through5) Apply power and check all lights are working before snapping shut6) If connection is working, snap shut, I also use a plier and give it a slight squeeze to ensure the two piecing pins are punched into the strip to hold it in place.Photo-4 is photo of proper connection and area to check.Not quite understanding the right and left angle in the reviews and question section. Photo-6 shows the connector being use in a right and left direction angle.Some complain about the labels on the L-board on reversed or the RGB or in different order and therefore not usable. As long as you keep the LED strip (+) connections on the strip connecting to the (+) connections to the LED strip on the other side, the RGB will stay aligned regardless of the labeling on the L-circuit board. See photo-7. This is show that the LED strips (+),R,G,B are in alignment regardless of the connector labeling. These are straight through connections. As long as you align the ends of the LED strips in the same order so that the (+) are lining up, either or top are at the bottom, the rest of the strip will match up. (photo-7)5Bad connectivity...you pay for what you get! (Customer support made it right (7/20/2018)) These are definitely not worth buying. I don't know how the other reviewers that gave this product more than 1 star managed to get these to work. I have messed with LED light strips for quite some time. I have always soldered them with no issues. I figured I'd save some time buy buying these connectors. Ended up wasting more time trying to get them to work than it would have taken me to solder my LEDs together. The connectivity is horrible. No matter how many connectors, light strips or what end I used these would not get the lights to either light or get the RGB colors to light correctly. I even scraped the ends to make sure there was no plastic ensuring metal to metal connectivity. Not sure why these didn't work. I can only assume the metal used is not a good conductor. If you made these work, please tell me how!7/20/2018...I received a full refund from the seller JACKYLED which was a nice surprise since I didn't request it initially...they offered either replacement or refund. I chose the refund. Maybe I got a bad batch. They didn't request a product return which was nice. Maybe I'll experiment with what I have and update again later. This is what they sent below. Made a difference to me so I'm adding a star.We have refunded to your account, please check it. We really hope the refund and our apologize can make up for this unpleasant shopping experience.Any question in the future, please feel free to contact us, we ll do our best to support you.Sorry for the inconvenience. 2Works if you are aware how to use itThere is a learning curve with this. Directions are stupid. Here is what you need to know: You have to take the adhesive off the light strip where you attach it. Once you peel that part back (and cut it off) you have to push the light strip part UNDER the metal strips. No where does it say that on the instructions and it wasn't until a few tries I realized exactly how to get it to work. Also, make sure you keep it number to number in order. If it says ABCD on one side, it MUST say ABCD on the other. If you do DCBA other side it won't work. That means you have to make sure you have the right side of your light strip situated so it bends the way you want BEFORE you start cutting your lighting and connecting. Double check it before you do anything. Trust me, it makes a huge difference. There isn't any adhesion, so double stick tape is needed. With those things in mind it actually is very easy.5Great 90* couplings for LED Tape lights - SEE SAFETY ISSUEThere is not much really to say about these -- they work with all standard LED tape lights. There are some things you need to be aware of:If you are using the rubberized waterproof tape lights, you will need to CAREFULLY strip back some of the rubber coating in order for these to work.I used a sharp single edged blade and cut straight down and was able to peel it back.Also, do a dry-run on a table with connectors and such on a table before sticking them to the surface. All the wires need to match all the way through and the connectors will FIT in both orientations, but only one will work. These are well marked and will facilitate proper connections.EDIT: 8 months after installation, there was a small electrical issue. See attached photo. Over the course of a week or so, I noticed that the lights on one side of the junction were flickering, then eventually turned off completely. Upon investigation I learned that the connector had burned up.I am leaving the rating where it was initially as this could have been installation error that took time to manifest.5Lengthy, in-depth, yet detailed product review - with photos and (IMO) some good advice Okay, I will give credit where credit is due by stating that these 90 LED connectors are well-built, very inexpensive, neatly packaged, and do the trick...that is, I'm guessing "90% " of the time. However, there was just one small "hang up": these 90 L-shaped connectors are NOT universal; meaning, that (for instance) in order to effectively work, one needs to make sure that they have lined up their strips to match the wiring structure of the L-shaped 90 (Pic 1).But some may ask, "Why does this matter?" or better yet, "What's so difficult about that?" Well, in all truthfulness, there is nothing hard about it; that is, unless you, unlike myself, had actually started off with all the necessary materials and parts that would be needed. So, being that I did not, I would say it's fairly likely that many people would not even encounter this as being an issue. Nonetheless, I did, so I am fairly certain that I am not alone in this matter. Therefore, I sure that others could benefit by hearing the story (both that of the buyer, in addition to that of the manufacturer).So, take for example this scenario: Here I had wanted to place an LED strip around the top sides of my bathtub (just as I have done a few times prior). And while I do recommend double-sided 3M tape for practically all surfaces where LED strips are to be applied, especially that of a humid area like a bathtub, Aside from that, I truly cannot count the number of times that I have hung up LED strips over the last five years or so, only to have watched them (either a minute or several days after installation) come right back down/off, or look looking like sh*t. This is half in part due to the fact the backing tape (being lined with a VERY lightweight and inexpensive version of 3M tape which is far from being substantial enough to carry the load of a 18' LED's strip. ESPECIALLY WHEN HUNG UP UPSIDE DOWN AND ALONG A PORUS SURFACE SUCH ON INTERIOR WALLS, UNFINISHED WOOD (often found underneath kitchen cabinets) and on masonry (just to give a few). Therefore, with that in mind, the first thing that I did was to have placed 3M tape all around that top sections of the tub (Pic 2) (PLEASE READ BELOW ON MY RECOMMENDATION, AS YOU SIMPLY SHOULD NOT GO WITH THAT OF JUST ANY 3M TAPE (Pics 3, 4). Next, I placed my first pre-cut strip atop the already adhered 3M strip (Pics 5 & 6) having made sure to have left an exposed area of which, I had planned to connect another 5' strip to that ran along the top length of the tub. And since I only had one original L-shaped connector from the pervious set, and it was broken, I immediately ordered these expecting them to be identical to the ones I previously had. But that's when I noticed that they, of course, were different. I had two choices: try to remove the 5' strip of LED's which were already in place and adhered several days prior; simply so I could replace it with a different strip that matched the layout of these 90 angles (however, not only would that be a lot of work, but it would render that strip useless). Or I could simply find another option. I did not have connectors, nevertheless, I did find a few precut 90 wiring segments that matched the exact wiring that I had set up. Without having done this, I would not have been able to complete my project with the ones that I had ordered.If that does not make any sense, please see the photos I have attached. Lastly, I would highly recommend to the manufacturer a bit of advice that (I believe) would suit them just well, and that is to please include two different sets of prewired 90 segments; in particular, those of the: BGR+ and the +RGB varieties.Otherwise, it's a fairly good dealt through and through out.4Faulty, hard to use and just don t work. These absolutely DO NOT WORK. They do not stay connected, they flicker on and off and even if you manage to cram the end of the light strip into the connector clip so it s completely secure the green light function fails to work! That s a pretty big deal breaker when the person I bought these for wants to use the green light setting. I followed the instructions to the letter and made sure the positive terminal matched the positive section on the LED light strip. It s a shame they don t work because if they worked properly they would be perfect. But I guess we will just be bending the light strip around the corners of the TV instead of having a perfect 90 degree angle. Good thing the strip of lights I bought had an additional plug connector on the other end or this would have made an entire strip of lights inoperable. :( Thumbs DOWN here folks.1After doing a test run the strip worked just fine and the entire procedure took less than 2 minutes I ordered these knowing they are for 10mm strips, but I used them to repair one of my 12mm 6803ic LED strips that was damaged. I cut the strip where marked to remove the damaged section and trimmed the width of each end down with a razor knife. I then slipped the exposed copper ends under each side of the connector pins and clamped it down. After doing a test run the strip worked just fine and the entire procedure took less than 2 minutes. If the lights will be on a stationary object this should work just fine, if they are on an object that is moving or subject to vibration or rattling, it may/may not hold up under pressure or may require a backing material to help hold it in place a little tighter.....will need to test that aspect further.It was so quick and easy (after attempting to solder the connections) that these clips are well worth the rather small investment! Beats throwing out an entire 5 meter strip (it was 2 feet longer than I needed anyway, lol).Will update on how well they hold up! 5Quick And Easythe are great for those whom are DIY and working for tape for the first time or whom don't have access to a soldering iron/not confident in your skills.these ones seem like the usual quality, nothing wrong or bad. all the printing on the tape portion was in place.two tips with these:1: they won't work properly anywhere the tape has been solder spliced or the tabs have solder on them. they will be too thick to fit into the plastic clips of the corner. but that is the case with all these clip style connectors usually.2: as a ProTip, the tape potrion of these without the plastic connectors are a wonderful way to have clean corners on pro level installs. as long as you can do what you need in the standard tape second lengths these look better than leads for a corner and are faster to do, no wires to strip, tin, solder.5InstructionsI was having a hard time figuring out how these connect, the biggest problem being that the clips are so small, I had trouble seeing them.First, the hard white plastic pieces opens, they have a cover that s opens and closes, the side that opens looks like a small box, pulls away and flips up. Obviously the best way to get these open is to use your teeth.Once you have both sides open you ll see 4...very, very small Silver prongs, the trick is to slip either the corner piece or the cut end of the LED strip pushed UNDER the Silver prongs. If you look very carefully at the side of the plastic piece with the top open you ll see a very small grove, the cut end needs to be inserted into this grove and pushed in UNDER the Silver prongs.The 12v, Red, Green, Blue must match, your completing the circuit to get the next string to light up. Hope this helps.5Sometimes you may have to wiggle the connection side to side or make a better cut on the LED strip for all the colors ... Nothing fancy - does the job to connect RGB LED strip lighting together for the needed shapes. Some of the connections took a bit of fiddling to get all the colors to turn on, but all worked in the end.A few pieces of advice:If your lights have adhesive tape attached make sure it is removed for the amount the clips will cover (including any residue or stickyness - you may need to clean it with rubbing alcohol and a q-tip if it doesn't come off easily). The same applies if it has a waterproof silicon coating (though these are not waterproof).Set your lights to a white color so all the LED colors are active and slide the strips into the connectors with the lights on, so you can look closely at the LEDs and make sure all the colors are lighting up (you may want to turn the brightness down so you can see it better). Sometimes you may have to wiggle the connection side to side or make a better cut on the LED strip for all the colors to light properly. Each little prong should firmly touch one of the metal pads on the LED strips.Make sure the correct end of your LED strip goes in these. If you are just getting a very dim/flickery version of one color then either use the other end of your strip or flip the strip over and reinsert it. That should take care of the problem.Don't snap the clips down until the LED strip is fully working, as they're kind of a pain to get unclipped if you need to adjust the connection because one color isn't working or something. Get the connection working and then snap it. 5Not Just for Splicing LED Strips, A Nice Adapter for Breadboarding and STEM Experiments I purchased these thinking they would help me with breadboard prototyping of 12v analog RGB light strips, and they do nicely.First, to insert the LED strip you simply be certain to slide the edges of the strip under the plastic edge tabs and the strip will align nicely with the contact fingers. The LED strips are marked for polarity (12v strips are (+) common) and the splice is marked for polarity on the shell.Second, I was happy I was able to slide Male-Female breadboard wires under the contact switches on the other side. This makes it simple for me to use a short length during prototyping and not worry about soldering new leads or adding some bulky lead with removable pins that causes things to want to flop all over the place while I'm working.Thee photos, all grainy from enlargement. One is the labeling of the LED inserted in the splice, showing the plastic edge tabs over the LED strip. Another shows how tight the snap-over shell is to the first LED - they are touching. The third shows the Male-Female breadboard wires pressed under the contacts. Please note how the plastic edge tab interferes with the alignment of the end connectors, so if you use one of these for all four pins and RGB testing, you will want to carefully cut away those edge tabs so the end connectors can be straight. 5Good connectors for 90 degree turns.Worked just as described. These come in separate pieces (connectors and the strips) so you have to piece them together. This is actually a good thing as it takes about 5 seconds to snap them in and allows you to interchange the parts of some are defective.In implementing these, I encountered a few defective clips but the purchase provided me with more than what I needed to complete the project so it worked out well. The only thing I would have like better would be small pieces of double sided tape to help with the mounting. All in all, this was a good product and I would definitely buy again.5These elbows are good and the connectors bite into the led strips which ...These elbows are good and the connectors bite into the led strips which is nice because it keeps them in place. But I dont understand why if you reverse the strips but keep the led leads in the same orientation it will not work unless power is to power on the elbow. So if you need the elbow to turn the other way you will need to look at the back of the elbow.5
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Reviews

Customer Reviews

Simon Cowell? It s gonna be a no for me. Imagine taking one connection and magically turning it into 4 loose connections. That s what you get with this product.You know those little blue 3m snap on connectors that allow you to splice into a wire and connect another wire? Yeah, that s not these. The pins that pierce the contact points are tiny and weak. And everything wiggles. It s near impossible to line them up correctly. How impossible you ask? Imagine pooping out the window of a Boeing 747 at 10,000 feet and trying to drop it into the sunroof of a car on the freeway down below going the opposite direction at 100 mph and that should give you some idea of how frustratingly impossible it is to line these connectors up. I can t fully describe how bad an experience awaits those stupidly idealistic enough to purchase this product. I ve done low voltage wiring for decades. Trust me. Get a soldering iron, some 60/40 solder, 22 AWG insulated wire and some RTV silicone do this project the right way, and never try to poop out an airplane window. Sky marshals hate that and it s not pretty.1Good Clean looking connectors5-stars for the price, a clean looking installation. and if you only need 90 degree connection (left or right). These L-connectors makes a nice clean looking installation. Photo-B show the final installation on the LED strip.If you need an angle that is not a straight 90 degree, then a wired connection might be better for you. These L-connector have two piecing pins to prevent the strip from pulling out, making a better secure connection. Other brand just use pressure on the contacts to secure the strip in the connector. Also note that these can be used as a straight connector by inserting the LED strip on both end of the connector without using the L-connect circuit board.After reading all the reviews on this product and other reviews on other brands for LED connectors, it seems that 15% of the reviewers have issue with bad connections via strip not working, cross color, or not all lights working after hooking everything up. After having used these, and initially had a bad connection, I looked at what could be wrong. Then I realized that this is not just a cut, insert, and snap shut the connector process. It will work every time. You need to take the time and do it right. I found it much easier to assemble and test all connections before installation. Test each connection as you add a strip. If doing a room, assemble one corner at a time and test it before sticking it to the wall.After cutting at the proper cut line on the strip, remove the foam adhesive backing on the back side under the copper strips, about a . (photo-1). You should have a very thin strip to insert into the connector. The connector has a thin slot at the end, that the strip is insert in (photo-2). The strip end is not push into the pins from above. While inserting into the slot, push with the copper strips going under the 4 pressure contacts. This may seem simple, but I notice when pushing in, one contact may go above, not under. Photo-3 shows the bottom connect underneath and not making proper contact. After checking that all 4 copper strips are under the pressure contacts on the connector, give it a wiggle to make good contact and make sure it is all the way in. Insert the L-Connector circuit board (verifying connection) and do the same for the connector at the other end. Make sure the (+) side of the strips are connected. Do not snap shut until the connection has been tested.Things to check for a good connection.1) Strip is inserted under the lip2) Copper on strip are under the pressure pin and push all the way in. Wiggle to make a good connection3) Do the same for the L-connector circuit board4) (+) are aligned all the way through5) Apply power and check all lights are working before snapping shut6) If connection is working, snap shut, I also use a plier and give it a slight squeeze to ensure the two piecing pins are punched into the strip to hold it in place.Photo-4 is photo of proper connection and area to check.Not quite understanding the right and left angle in the reviews and question section. Photo-6 shows the connector being use in a right and left direction angle.Some complain about the labels on the L-board on reversed or the RGB or in different order and therefore not usable. As long as you keep the LED strip (+) connections on the strip connecting to the (+) connections to the LED strip on the other side, the RGB will stay aligned regardless of the labeling on the L-circuit board. See photo-7. This is show that the LED strips (+),R,G,B are in alignment regardless of the connector labeling. These are straight through connections. As long as you align the ends of the LED strips in the same order so that the (+) are lining up, either or top are at the bottom, the rest of the strip will match up. (photo-7)5Bad connectivity...you pay for what you get! (Customer support made it right (7/20/2018)) These are definitely not worth buying. I don't know how the other reviewers that gave this product more than 1 star managed to get these to work. I have messed with LED light strips for quite some time. I have always soldered them with no issues. I figured I'd save some time buy buying these connectors. Ended up wasting more time trying to get them to work than it would have taken me to solder my LEDs together. The connectivity is horrible. No matter how many connectors, light strips or what end I used these would not get the lights to either light or get the RGB colors to light correctly. I even scraped the ends to make sure there was no plastic ensuring metal to metal connectivity. Not sure why these didn't work. I can only assume the metal used is not a good conductor. If you made these work, please tell me how!7/20/2018...I received a full refund from the seller JACKYLED which was a nice surprise since I didn't request it initially...they offered either replacement or refund. I chose the refund. Maybe I got a bad batch. They didn't request a product return which was nice. Maybe I'll experiment with what I have and update again later. This is what they sent below. Made a difference to me so I'm adding a star.We have refunded to your account, please check it. We really hope the refund and our apologize can make up for this unpleasant shopping experience.Any question in the future, please feel free to contact us, we ll do our best to support you.Sorry for the inconvenience. 2Works if you are aware how to use itThere is a learning curve with this. Directions are stupid. Here is what you need to know: You have to take the adhesive off the light strip where you attach it. Once you peel that part back (and cut it off) you have to push the light strip part UNDER the metal strips. No where does it say that on the instructions and it wasn't until a few tries I realized exactly how to get it to work. Also, make sure you keep it number to number in order. If it says ABCD on one side, it MUST say ABCD on the other. If you do DCBA other side it won't work. That means you have to make sure you have the right side of your light strip situated so it bends the way you want BEFORE you start cutting your lighting and connecting. Double check it before you do anything. Trust me, it makes a huge difference. There isn't any adhesion, so double stick tape is needed. With those things in mind it actually is very easy.5Great 90* couplings for LED Tape lights - SEE SAFETY ISSUEThere is not much really to say about these -- they work with all standard LED tape lights. There are some things you need to be aware of:If you are using the rubberized waterproof tape lights, you will need to CAREFULLY strip back some of the rubber coating in order for these to work.I used a sharp single edged blade and cut straight down and was able to peel it back.Also, do a dry-run on a table with connectors and such on a table before sticking them to the surface. All the wires need to match all the way through and the connectors will FIT in both orientations, but only one will work. These are well marked and will facilitate proper connections.EDIT: 8 months after installation, there was a small electrical issue. See attached photo. Over the course of a week or so, I noticed that the lights on one side of the junction were flickering, then eventually turned off completely. Upon investigation I learned that the connector had burned up.I am leaving the rating where it was initially as this could have been installation error that took time to manifest.5Lengthy, in-depth, yet detailed product review - with photos and (IMO) some good advice Okay, I will give credit where credit is due by stating that these 90 LED connectors are well-built, very inexpensive, neatly packaged, and do the trick...that is, I'm guessing "90% " of the time. However, there was just one small "hang up": these 90 L-shaped connectors are NOT universal; meaning, that (for instance) in order to effectively work, one needs to make sure that they have lined up their strips to match the wiring structure of the L-shaped 90 (Pic 1).But some may ask, "Why does this matter?" or better yet, "What's so difficult about that?" Well, in all truthfulness, there is nothing hard about it; that is, unless you, unlike myself, had actually started off with all the necessary materials and parts that would be needed. So, being that I did not, I would say it's fairly likely that many people would not even encounter this as being an issue. Nonetheless, I did, so I am fairly certain that I am not alone in this matter. Therefore, I sure that others could benefit by hearing the story (both that of the buyer, in addition to that of the manufacturer).So, take for example this scenario: Here I had wanted to place an LED strip around the top sides of my bathtub (just as I have done a few times prior). And while I do recommend double-sided 3M tape for practically all surfaces where LED strips are to be applied, especially that of a humid area like a bathtub, Aside from that, I truly cannot count the number of times that I have hung up LED strips over the last five years or so, only to have watched them (either a minute or several days after installation) come right back down/off, or look looking like sh*t. This is half in part due to the fact the backing tape (being lined with a VERY lightweight and inexpensive version of 3M tape which is far from being substantial enough to carry the load of a 18' LED's strip. ESPECIALLY WHEN HUNG UP UPSIDE DOWN AND ALONG A PORUS SURFACE SUCH ON INTERIOR WALLS, UNFINISHED WOOD (often found underneath kitchen cabinets) and on masonry (just to give a few). Therefore, with that in mind, the first thing that I did was to have placed 3M tape all around that top sections of the tub (Pic 2) (PLEASE READ BELOW ON MY RECOMMENDATION, AS YOU SIMPLY SHOULD NOT GO WITH THAT OF JUST ANY 3M TAPE (Pics 3, 4). Next, I placed my first pre-cut strip atop the already adhered 3M strip (Pics 5 & 6) having made sure to have left an exposed area of which, I had planned to connect another 5' strip to that ran along the top length of the tub. And since I only had one original L-shaped connector from the pervious set, and it was broken, I immediately ordered these expecting them to be identical to the ones I previously had. But that's when I noticed that they, of course, were different. I had two choices: try to remove the 5' strip of LED's which were already in place and adhered several days prior; simply so I could replace it with a different strip that matched the layout of these 90 angles (however, not only would that be a lot of work, but it would render that strip useless). Or I could simply find another option. I did not have connectors, nevertheless, I did find a few precut 90 wiring segments that matched the exact wiring that I had set up. Without having done this, I would not have been able to complete my project with the ones that I had ordered.If that does not make any sense, please see the photos I have attached. Lastly, I would highly recommend to the manufacturer a bit of advice that (I believe) would suit them just well, and that is to please include two different sets of prewired 90 segments; in particular, those of the: BGR+ and the +RGB varieties.Otherwise, it's a fairly good dealt through and through out.4Faulty, hard to use and just don t work. These absolutely DO NOT WORK. They do not stay connected, they flicker on and off and even if you manage to cram the end of the light strip into the connector clip so it s completely secure the green light function fails to work! That s a pretty big deal breaker when the person I bought these for wants to use the green light setting. I followed the instructions to the letter and made sure the positive terminal matched the positive section on the LED light strip. It s a shame they don t work because if they worked properly they would be perfect. But I guess we will just be bending the light strip around the corners of the TV instead of having a perfect 90 degree angle. Good thing the strip of lights I bought had an additional plug connector on the other end or this would have made an entire strip of lights inoperable. :( Thumbs DOWN here folks.1After doing a test run the strip worked just fine and the entire procedure took less than 2 minutes I ordered these knowing they are for 10mm strips, but I used them to repair one of my 12mm 6803ic LED strips that was damaged. I cut the strip where marked to remove the damaged section and trimmed the width of each end down with a razor knife. I then slipped the exposed copper ends under each side of the connector pins and clamped it down. After doing a test run the strip worked just fine and the entire procedure took less than 2 minutes. If the lights will be on a stationary object this should work just fine, if they are on an object that is moving or subject to vibration or rattling, it may/may not hold up under pressure or may require a backing material to help hold it in place a little tighter.....will need to test that aspect further.It was so quick and easy (after attempting to solder the connections) that these clips are well worth the rather small investment! Beats throwing out an entire 5 meter strip (it was 2 feet longer than I needed anyway, lol).Will update on how well they hold up! 5Quick And Easythe are great for those whom are DIY and working for tape for the first time or whom don't have access to a soldering iron/not confident in your skills.these ones seem like the usual quality, nothing wrong or bad. all the printing on the tape portion was in place.two tips with these:1: they won't work properly anywhere the tape has been solder spliced or the tabs have solder on them. they will be too thick to fit into the plastic clips of the corner. but that is the case with all these clip style connectors usually.2: as a ProTip, the tape potrion of these without the plastic connectors are a wonderful way to have clean corners on pro level installs. as long as you can do what you need in the standard tape second lengths these look better than leads for a corner and are faster to do, no wires to strip, tin, solder.5InstructionsI was having a hard time figuring out how these connect, the biggest problem being that the clips are so small, I had trouble seeing them.First, the hard white plastic pieces opens, they have a cover that s opens and closes, the side that opens looks like a small box, pulls away and flips up. Obviously the best way to get these open is to use your teeth.Once you have both sides open you ll see 4...very, very small Silver prongs, the trick is to slip either the corner piece or the cut end of the LED strip pushed UNDER the Silver prongs. If you look very carefully at the side of the plastic piece with the top open you ll see a very small grove, the cut end needs to be inserted into this grove and pushed in UNDER the Silver prongs.The 12v, Red, Green, Blue must match, your completing the circuit to get the next string to light up. Hope this helps.5Sometimes you may have to wiggle the connection side to side or make a better cut on the LED strip for all the colors ... Nothing fancy - does the job to connect RGB LED strip lighting together for the needed shapes. Some of the connections took a bit of fiddling to get all the colors to turn on, but all worked in the end.A few pieces of advice:If your lights have adhesive tape attached make sure it is removed for the amount the clips will cover (including any residue or stickyness - you may need to clean it with rubbing alcohol and a q-tip if it doesn't come off easily). The same applies if it has a waterproof silicon coating (though these are not waterproof).Set your lights to a white color so all the LED colors are active and slide the strips into the connectors with the lights on, so you can look closely at the LEDs and make sure all the colors are lighting up (you may want to turn the brightness down so you can see it better). Sometimes you may have to wiggle the connection side to side or make a better cut on the LED strip for all the colors to light properly. Each little prong should firmly touch one of the metal pads on the LED strips.Make sure the correct end of your LED strip goes in these. If you are just getting a very dim/flickery version of one color then either use the other end of your strip or flip the strip over and reinsert it. That should take care of the problem.Don't snap the clips down until the LED strip is fully working, as they're kind of a pain to get unclipped if you need to adjust the connection because one color isn't working or something. Get the connection working and then snap it. 5Not Just for Splicing LED Strips, A Nice Adapter for Breadboarding and STEM Experiments I purchased these thinking they would help me with breadboard prototyping of 12v analog RGB light strips, and they do nicely.First, to insert the LED strip you simply be certain to slide the edges of the strip under the plastic edge tabs and the strip will align nicely with the contact fingers. The LED strips are marked for polarity (12v strips are (+) common) and the splice is marked for polarity on the shell.Second, I was happy I was able to slide Male-Female breadboard wires under the contact switches on the other side. This makes it simple for me to use a short length during prototyping and not worry about soldering new leads or adding some bulky lead with removable pins that causes things to want to flop all over the place while I'm working.Thee photos, all grainy from enlargement. One is the labeling of the LED inserted in the splice, showing the plastic edge tabs over the LED strip. Another shows how tight the snap-over shell is to the first LED - they are touching. The third shows the Male-Female breadboard wires pressed under the contacts. Please note how the plastic edge tab interferes with the alignment of the end connectors, so if you use one of these for all four pins and RGB testing, you will want to carefully cut away those edge tabs so the end connectors can be straight. 5Good connectors for 90 degree turns.Worked just as described. These come in separate pieces (connectors and the strips) so you have to piece them together. This is actually a good thing as it takes about 5 seconds to snap them in and allows you to interchange the parts of some are defective.In implementing these, I encountered a few defective clips but the purchase provided me with more than what I needed to complete the project so it worked out well. The only thing I would have like better would be small pieces of double sided tape to help with the mounting. All in all, this was a good product and I would definitely buy again.5These elbows are good and the connectors bite into the led strips which ...These elbows are good and the connectors bite into the led strips which is nice because it keeps them in place. But I dont understand why if you reverse the strips but keep the led leads in the same orientation it will not work unless power is to power on the elbow. So if you need the elbow to turn the other way you will need to look at the back of the elbow.5
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