• InstallGear 1/0 Gauge Black 25ft Power/Ground Wire True Spec and Soft Touch Cable
  • InstallGear 1/0 Gauge Black 25ft Power/Ground Wire True Spec and Soft Touch Cable
  • InstallGear 1/0 Gauge Black 25ft Power/Ground Wire True Spec and Soft Touch Cable
InstallGear 1/0 Gauge Black 25ft Power/Ground Wire True Spec and Soft Touch Cable
InstallGear 1/0 Gauge Black 25ft Power/Ground Wire True Spec and Soft Touch Cable
InstallGear 1/0 Gauge Black 25ft Power/Ground Wire True Spec and Soft Touch Cable

InstallGear 1/0 Gauge Black 25ft Power/Ground Wire True Spec and Soft Touch Cable

Sale price
MRP: €76,00
Regular price
€126,00
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per 
( 39% off )
Quantity:
Expected Delivery: 21-28 days
Import Duties to be borne by the customer at the time of delivery.
Product price is exclusive of such duties.

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10 Days Return

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Secure Payments

10 Days Return

  • 25-FEET (7.62m) [ BLACK 1/0 GAUGE POWER/GROUND WIRE ] - The lower the gauge number, the thicker the wire. Thicker wire presents less resistance to current flow.
  • COPPER CLAD ALUMINUM (CCA) - CCA wiring provides a good conductor for power transfer. This is the most economical option when choosing power or ground wire. Systems that require more power should consider OFC wiring.
  • RUGGED PVC JACKET - Allows free, wide and seamless adjustment of the required physical properties of this wire such as flexibility, elasticity, and impact resistance.
  • EASY POLARITY IDENTIFICATION - This two color jacket allows for easy polarity identification. Making a polarity mistake could be damaging to your audio equipment.
  • SOFT TOUCH JACKET - The jacket on our cable is designed with the installer in mind. The flexibility of this jacket allows for easy routing and has a low memory.

Customer Reviews

THIS IS NOT COPPER. Should have cut a test ... THIS IS NOT COPPER. Should have cut a test piece when it arrived, but started project after return the window expired...Description is not accurate, and deceptive, this is aluminum wire with a copper coating, be careful as this will not have the same amp rating as copper 4AWG, you could cause a electrical fire if improperly used. 1It is superbly flexible and would make great low loss jumper cables I used this cable to connect (with a manual switch) my RV house battery with my RV engine battery to charge the house battery using my engine AND to potentially jump start my engine battery if the need arises. It works well for my purpose.Cable works very well although you should be aware that it is copper CLAD aluminum (Saves a lot of money for the same conductor in copper) so if you want ONLY copper wire, this is not. It is superbly flexible and would make great low loss jumper cables. 5So much cheaper than most CCA, makes switchin off OFC worth it's lack of conductivity @ this price Im running a Soundqubed HDS3.1 15" rated 2400WMax/1200WRMS. I was originally pushing it w/an Orion Cobalt 2500.1D that's rated 1200RMS@1ohm which is how it's wired. I started w/ KnuKoncepts Kollosus OFC 4ga wire which, although I'm a fan of KnuKoncepts, it seemed like my Sub was under powered. After a clamp test I found I was, AT BEST, getting low 700's. I figured that, w/Cobalt bein Orion's budget brand of Amps, that my 2500.1D was most likely over rated but it had an internal Fuse rating of 120amps which take fuse rating X's voltage output, so conservatively let's say 12V, which my car always makes 13.9v when on, but at 12v that still comes to 1440 so I figured it must be under powered from lack of sufficient gauged 12v+ & gnd wire. Due to insufficient funds I made due w/ what I had but after 7mos my 2500.1D stopped workin correctly, began kickin in & out of protection mode & sounded terrible whenever it wasn't in protection mode. I discovered this meant it was shot so I stepped up to the Cobalt 3500.1D but after just a month this Amp began the same problem. So I decided to try this 1/0 wire in hopes that this would stop the failures I kept having w/ my Cobalts, even though it's CCA rather than OFC & I've always been a believer in OFC or nothing, but anyone who knows wire prices knows the significant difference in price for 20' of 1/0ga OFC compared to CCA wire. I finally got it installed, haven't got it hooked to a properly sized Amp for my sub since my Cobalts both shot craps already but the Power Acoustiks RZR Amp I'm temporarily using, til I can afford a larger amp again, seems to be happy with the power it's receiving from this wire. It's very flexible for 1/0ga CCA wire I was pleasantly surprised, made running it through my engine compartment & firewall easier than I had expected it to be. Although I haven't measured officially it appears to be legit or very close to correct gauge. It's wrapped in thick insulation but doesn't seem to be a(use insulation to make up for insufficient wire) situation to make 2gauge appear to be 1/0ga. It's definitely worth every penny of what it costs considering what you get & what you pay. Happy enough to buy again definitely regardless of it not being OFC. Thanks for the great wire @ an amazing price! 4Very thick wire, see below. Obviously this is actual 4GA. Thing is, some amp manufactures seem to assume you'll be buying the fake 4GA wire kits and the power/ground ports aren't big enough for this wire. I had to trim down and buy an adapter to get this wire to fit the Boss Phantom 3700. No fault of this manufacturer, wire is amazing and works great. 5True 8 Gauge Wire! I found that some of the cheaper installation "kits" include wire they claim to be 8 gauge, but when you actually receive it you find something more like 14 gauge wire with a lot of fat insulation.This wire is true 8 gauge fine stranded copper wire with a good quality insulation. It is easy to work with, routes nicely, and seems to be everything it claims.I installed an aftermarket sub amp/woofer combo in my new car to augment the existing factory radio, which is pretty good by itself. The sub adds a whole new dimension to the sound and makes it seem like a much better stereo! Definitely worth the small investment in time and money.In fact, I was so happy with the results, I duplicated the purchase (including the InstallGear 8 gauge wire), and installed another one in my wife's truck. She was REALLY happy with the results! Happy wife, happy life! 5Nice cable for the money. Being that this was much less expensive than other 1/0 cables, I was nervous at what quality I was going to get. I was happily impressed, the cable is actual 1/0 conductor and is easy to work with. I'm not sure the cable jacket is going to be as durable as some other cables that are more expensive, but I'm not putting it into a place that needs the extra durability, and it makes it much easier to work with and run the cable in tight spaces. I would buy this brand again for sure. 5Aluminum Wire - Not Copper This is cheap Aluminum wire that they try to pass off as copper. I was tricked by the product description and had the wire delivered. The jacket seems soft and quality constructed. But I wanted copper 8 gauge wire to power my radio setup. Read closely and buy the right thing. 1Corrodes and breaks apart very very fast. Very fast. This stuff is absolutely junk. The copper wires inside the cable corrode completely and just breaks apart within a matter of a couple months. Absolutely junk. It works great during those couple months but then suddenly it ll just break apart out of nowhere. Junk. Would not buy again nor would I recommend this item to anyone else. 1Just what I needed A Good DealJust want to help a bit with the size of wire actually neededall car audio places will tell you to go with 4 gauge or larger for my 750 and 1200 watt rms amps. And i did install 4 gauge at first and found it to be cumbersome to install and hide. But the wires where always ice cold so I new they where not being put under a load at all. I then did some more research on gauge size needed for the amount of watts being used and found by reading 2 different engineers works - the real geeks who know there stuff and are not trying to up sale or overprotect a product - that indeed 8 gauge is plenty good for my application - the proof being in that nothing is getting hot, not even close, not the wires or the connections. This is because not all charts take into context the lenth of the wire or the true watts being used.You can calculate the length of the wire very easy by just measuring.And for the true watts being used you can simply see what size of fuses your amp uses - for example, one of my amps that says it is 1500 watts max and 750 watts rms has 2 - 25amp fuses. That is 50 amps all together - times this by 12 (the volts your vehicle system uses) and this gives you the absolute max watts that my amp can put out before the fuses will pop. In my case for this amp it is 600 watts. Now we have a real (max) number of watts to work with. But lets not forget how you listen to your music and in my case I never turn up the volume to max. I know that I am only using 500 watts max and much less than that for a true rms.And now my rant has almost come to and end. My other amp is listed as 2400 max and 1200 rms. It has 2 -40 amp fuses. Giving it a true max watts of 960 and with my use of it being an actual max of 800 seeing that I never ho above 85% max volume because of distortion at max levels. Once again making the true rms much less than 800 the actual watts the wires would be under load with for any prolonged period of time while listening to music. Hope this helps. Again if anyone is in doubt. Run your system for a while at your max volume you use then go feel the wires and connections at/near battery/amp. If at any place it is hot to the touch then you are not getting your max watts out of your amp and need to go with heavier wires. Not to mention to avoid any hazards. 5Unsafe! Insulation Cracks in Time. Use a Fuse Block with InstallGear Cable. I installed InstallGear cable in my car, where it runs from the battery block to an amplifier. After approximately 18mos, the plastic insulation (casing, whatever) has cracked thru in different places in those exposed areas inside the engine compartment, exposing the copper conductor.I have zero idea why the casing failed--I speculate that the plastic simply does not survive well against heat/time within the environment of a car. The casing of exposed cable inside the trunk seems intact, and presumably the same can be said for the portions hidden under the carpet inside the cabin. InstallGear cable does not display a UL logo.While ALL direct power taps from the battery should be fused at the battery, it is particularly necessary with the InstallGear cable due to its proneness to casing failure. Even better: purchase a UL-listed cable product. 1
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Reviews

Customer Reviews

THIS IS NOT COPPER. Should have cut a test ... THIS IS NOT COPPER. Should have cut a test piece when it arrived, but started project after return the window expired...Description is not accurate, and deceptive, this is aluminum wire with a copper coating, be careful as this will not have the same amp rating as copper 4AWG, you could cause a electrical fire if improperly used. 1It is superbly flexible and would make great low loss jumper cables I used this cable to connect (with a manual switch) my RV house battery with my RV engine battery to charge the house battery using my engine AND to potentially jump start my engine battery if the need arises. It works well for my purpose.Cable works very well although you should be aware that it is copper CLAD aluminum (Saves a lot of money for the same conductor in copper) so if you want ONLY copper wire, this is not. It is superbly flexible and would make great low loss jumper cables. 5So much cheaper than most CCA, makes switchin off OFC worth it's lack of conductivity @ this price Im running a Soundqubed HDS3.1 15" rated 2400WMax/1200WRMS. I was originally pushing it w/an Orion Cobalt 2500.1D that's rated 1200RMS@1ohm which is how it's wired. I started w/ KnuKoncepts Kollosus OFC 4ga wire which, although I'm a fan of KnuKoncepts, it seemed like my Sub was under powered. After a clamp test I found I was, AT BEST, getting low 700's. I figured that, w/Cobalt bein Orion's budget brand of Amps, that my 2500.1D was most likely over rated but it had an internal Fuse rating of 120amps which take fuse rating X's voltage output, so conservatively let's say 12V, which my car always makes 13.9v when on, but at 12v that still comes to 1440 so I figured it must be under powered from lack of sufficient gauged 12v+ & gnd wire. Due to insufficient funds I made due w/ what I had but after 7mos my 2500.1D stopped workin correctly, began kickin in & out of protection mode & sounded terrible whenever it wasn't in protection mode. I discovered this meant it was shot so I stepped up to the Cobalt 3500.1D but after just a month this Amp began the same problem. So I decided to try this 1/0 wire in hopes that this would stop the failures I kept having w/ my Cobalts, even though it's CCA rather than OFC & I've always been a believer in OFC or nothing, but anyone who knows wire prices knows the significant difference in price for 20' of 1/0ga OFC compared to CCA wire. I finally got it installed, haven't got it hooked to a properly sized Amp for my sub since my Cobalts both shot craps already but the Power Acoustiks RZR Amp I'm temporarily using, til I can afford a larger amp again, seems to be happy with the power it's receiving from this wire. It's very flexible for 1/0ga CCA wire I was pleasantly surprised, made running it through my engine compartment & firewall easier than I had expected it to be. Although I haven't measured officially it appears to be legit or very close to correct gauge. It's wrapped in thick insulation but doesn't seem to be a(use insulation to make up for insufficient wire) situation to make 2gauge appear to be 1/0ga. It's definitely worth every penny of what it costs considering what you get & what you pay. Happy enough to buy again definitely regardless of it not being OFC. Thanks for the great wire @ an amazing price! 4Very thick wire, see below. Obviously this is actual 4GA. Thing is, some amp manufactures seem to assume you'll be buying the fake 4GA wire kits and the power/ground ports aren't big enough for this wire. I had to trim down and buy an adapter to get this wire to fit the Boss Phantom 3700. No fault of this manufacturer, wire is amazing and works great. 5True 8 Gauge Wire! I found that some of the cheaper installation "kits" include wire they claim to be 8 gauge, but when you actually receive it you find something more like 14 gauge wire with a lot of fat insulation.This wire is true 8 gauge fine stranded copper wire with a good quality insulation. It is easy to work with, routes nicely, and seems to be everything it claims.I installed an aftermarket sub amp/woofer combo in my new car to augment the existing factory radio, which is pretty good by itself. The sub adds a whole new dimension to the sound and makes it seem like a much better stereo! Definitely worth the small investment in time and money.In fact, I was so happy with the results, I duplicated the purchase (including the InstallGear 8 gauge wire), and installed another one in my wife's truck. She was REALLY happy with the results! Happy wife, happy life! 5Nice cable for the money. Being that this was much less expensive than other 1/0 cables, I was nervous at what quality I was going to get. I was happily impressed, the cable is actual 1/0 conductor and is easy to work with. I'm not sure the cable jacket is going to be as durable as some other cables that are more expensive, but I'm not putting it into a place that needs the extra durability, and it makes it much easier to work with and run the cable in tight spaces. I would buy this brand again for sure. 5Aluminum Wire - Not Copper This is cheap Aluminum wire that they try to pass off as copper. I was tricked by the product description and had the wire delivered. The jacket seems soft and quality constructed. But I wanted copper 8 gauge wire to power my radio setup. Read closely and buy the right thing. 1Corrodes and breaks apart very very fast. Very fast. This stuff is absolutely junk. The copper wires inside the cable corrode completely and just breaks apart within a matter of a couple months. Absolutely junk. It works great during those couple months but then suddenly it ll just break apart out of nowhere. Junk. Would not buy again nor would I recommend this item to anyone else. 1Just what I needed A Good DealJust want to help a bit with the size of wire actually neededall car audio places will tell you to go with 4 gauge or larger for my 750 and 1200 watt rms amps. And i did install 4 gauge at first and found it to be cumbersome to install and hide. But the wires where always ice cold so I new they where not being put under a load at all. I then did some more research on gauge size needed for the amount of watts being used and found by reading 2 different engineers works - the real geeks who know there stuff and are not trying to up sale or overprotect a product - that indeed 8 gauge is plenty good for my application - the proof being in that nothing is getting hot, not even close, not the wires or the connections. This is because not all charts take into context the lenth of the wire or the true watts being used.You can calculate the length of the wire very easy by just measuring.And for the true watts being used you can simply see what size of fuses your amp uses - for example, one of my amps that says it is 1500 watts max and 750 watts rms has 2 - 25amp fuses. That is 50 amps all together - times this by 12 (the volts your vehicle system uses) and this gives you the absolute max watts that my amp can put out before the fuses will pop. In my case for this amp it is 600 watts. Now we have a real (max) number of watts to work with. But lets not forget how you listen to your music and in my case I never turn up the volume to max. I know that I am only using 500 watts max and much less than that for a true rms.And now my rant has almost come to and end. My other amp is listed as 2400 max and 1200 rms. It has 2 -40 amp fuses. Giving it a true max watts of 960 and with my use of it being an actual max of 800 seeing that I never ho above 85% max volume because of distortion at max levels. Once again making the true rms much less than 800 the actual watts the wires would be under load with for any prolonged period of time while listening to music. Hope this helps. Again if anyone is in doubt. Run your system for a while at your max volume you use then go feel the wires and connections at/near battery/amp. If at any place it is hot to the touch then you are not getting your max watts out of your amp and need to go with heavier wires. Not to mention to avoid any hazards. 5Unsafe! Insulation Cracks in Time. Use a Fuse Block with InstallGear Cable. I installed InstallGear cable in my car, where it runs from the battery block to an amplifier. After approximately 18mos, the plastic insulation (casing, whatever) has cracked thru in different places in those exposed areas inside the engine compartment, exposing the copper conductor.I have zero idea why the casing failed--I speculate that the plastic simply does not survive well against heat/time within the environment of a car. The casing of exposed cable inside the trunk seems intact, and presumably the same can be said for the portions hidden under the carpet inside the cabin. InstallGear cable does not display a UL logo.While ALL direct power taps from the battery should be fused at the battery, it is particularly necessary with the InstallGear cable due to its proneness to casing failure. Even better: purchase a UL-listed cable product. 1
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