• HitLights Warm White LED Strip Lights, UL-Listed Premium High Density 2835-16.4 Feet, 600 LEDs, 3000K, 44W, CRI 90+, 12V DC LED Tape Lights for Under Cabinet, Kitchen, Lighting Project
  • HitLights Warm White LED Strip Lights, UL-Listed Premium High Density 2835-16.4 Feet, 600 LEDs, 3000K, 44W, CRI 90+, 12V DC LED Tape Lights for Under Cabinet, Kitchen, Lighting Project
  • HitLights Warm White LED Strip Lights, UL-Listed Premium High Density 2835-16.4 Feet, 600 LEDs, 3000K, 44W, CRI 90+, 12V DC LED Tape Lights for Under Cabinet, Kitchen, Lighting Project
  • HitLights Warm White LED Strip Lights, UL-Listed Premium High Density 2835-16.4 Feet, 600 LEDs, 3000K, 44W, CRI 90+, 12V DC LED Tape Lights for Under Cabinet, Kitchen, Lighting Project
  • HitLights Warm White LED Strip Lights, UL-Listed Premium High Density 2835-16.4 Feet, 600 LEDs, 3000K, 44W, CRI 90+, 12V DC LED Tape Lights for Under Cabinet, Kitchen, Lighting Project
  • HitLights Warm White LED Strip Lights, UL-Listed Premium High Density 2835-16.4 Feet, 600 LEDs, 3000K, 44W, CRI 90+, 12V DC LED Tape Lights for Under Cabinet, Kitchen, Lighting Project
  • HitLights Warm White LED Strip Lights, UL-Listed Premium High Density 2835-16.4 Feet, 600 LEDs, 3000K, 44W, CRI 90+, 12V DC LED Tape Lights for Under Cabinet, Kitchen, Lighting Project
HitLights Warm White LED Strip Lights, UL-Listed Premium High Density 2835-16.4 Feet, 600 LEDs, 3000K, 44W, CRI 90+, 12V DC LED Tape Lights for Under Cabinet, Kitchen, Lighting Project
HitLights Warm White LED Strip Lights, UL-Listed Premium High Density 2835-16.4 Feet, 600 LEDs, 3000K, 44W, CRI 90+, 12V DC LED Tape Lights for Under Cabinet, Kitchen, Lighting Project
HitLights Warm White LED Strip Lights, UL-Listed Premium High Density 2835-16.4 Feet, 600 LEDs, 3000K, 44W, CRI 90+, 12V DC LED Tape Lights for Under Cabinet, Kitchen, Lighting Project
HitLights Warm White LED Strip Lights, UL-Listed Premium High Density 2835-16.4 Feet, 600 LEDs, 3000K, 44W, CRI 90+, 12V DC LED Tape Lights for Under Cabinet, Kitchen, Lighting Project
HitLights Warm White LED Strip Lights, UL-Listed Premium High Density 2835-16.4 Feet, 600 LEDs, 3000K, 44W, CRI 90+, 12V DC LED Tape Lights for Under Cabinet, Kitchen, Lighting Project
HitLights Warm White LED Strip Lights, UL-Listed Premium High Density 2835-16.4 Feet, 600 LEDs, 3000K, 44W, CRI 90+, 12V DC LED Tape Lights for Under Cabinet, Kitchen, Lighting Project
HitLights Warm White LED Strip Lights, UL-Listed Premium High Density 2835-16.4 Feet, 600 LEDs, 3000K, 44W, CRI 90+, 12V DC LED Tape Lights for Under Cabinet, Kitchen, Lighting Project

HitLights Warm White LED Strip Lights, UL-Listed Premium High Density 2835-16.4 Feet, 600 LEDs, 3000K, 44W, CRI 90+, 12V DC LED Tape Lights for Under Cabinet, Kitchen, Lighting Project

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MRP: €75,60
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€126,00
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Expected Delivery: 21-28 days
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  • HIGH QUALITY LED STRIP LIGHTS - Designed with double sided PCB 2835 LED lights, more durable and reliable for use with many applications. More than 50000Hours (5 Years) lifespan, these discreet strips feature closely packed LEDs for a smooth, even light without any spotting.
  • UPGRADED LED TAPE ADHESIVE - Compared with other non-high quality LED strip lights, we use high-quality 3M blue adhesive backing with heat resistance, strong viscosity and integration. Please contact customer service emails for any LED light strip with adhesive problems. We will accommodate a solution that best fits your project and needs.
  • SIMPLE AND EASY TO USE - Working for 12V voltage, Rated Power 44W. Please note that the total wattage of the LED strip should not exceed the maximum wattage of the power adapter. Doing so may cause the LED lights to flicker or the Lights to be dim.
  • DIMMABLE and FLEXIBLE - These LED strips are great for a variety of indoor / interior uses including under-cabinet lighting in kitchens, ambient accent lighting in bedrooms, lighting toekicks in bathrooms, or adding a backlighting source to displays, decorations, or book shelves, you are only limited by your imagination.
  • HITLIGHTS QUALITY UL-LISTED. Backed by a Three year warranty from HitLights for peace of mind. Contact our US-based customer service team at any time for no-hassle troubleshooting and replacement or for any questions about purchasing or installation.

Customer Reviews

Great LED Strips for Outdoor I purchased 3 sets of these lights and the 60 watt outdoor power supplies for a Christmas tree star. They worked great, but I only gave then 4 stars becuase one of the connectors had a cold solder joint (didnt make an electrical connection). I was able to fix this but not everyone might be handy with a soldering iron.Each year my family works to find, cut down, haul, standup and install the Christmas tree and lights for our County. We shoot for a 35ft tall spruce. The first year we did this, 2012, the county didn't have a star... so I welded one up for the next year and it is about 5 ft point to point. A Christmas tree has to have something on the top!I was never happy with how the lights turned out though, I used 4 strands of white large bulbed lights, like your put on an outdoor tree or around your eaves. They weren't bright enough, and they weren't crisp. The LEDs changed that this year.Check the pictures to see the star in action, it was even bright during the day. I would buy these again, just make sure you power them up before taking them off the reel or installing them. 4do not connect just one endMinus one star because product description omits this very important detail: YOU CAN'T USE THE STRIP TO POWER THE LEDS! I complained that HitLights LED strips don't draw the rated power, and they responded that I only wired to one end. The copper is too thin to provide power to the far end of the strip. Wow. I never thought of that. But it's true. I used a good 10A digital meter to check when powering one end (3.1A) vs. both ends (4.5A). Sure enough, there's a huge difference. Cutting into 1' lengths and using thicker wire to separately power each length would make them even brighter and consume even more power.My power readings were with hard-wired connections from a robust power supply (150W in my case). Using a supply with less than a 200% rating probably won't work. Adding connectors will KILL you. I tried powering the two ends with a factory-made Y splitter, and lost 0.7A. That one extra connection, and the thin wire inside the splitter, measures around 0.2 ohms of resistance. At 5 amps that's a volt off your 12V supply... and these strips are NOT regulated against changes in voltage. Solder everything, use thick wire, and jumper that thick wire into the midpoint of your LED strips.Yes, this string has connectors at both ends, but you're a fool if you connect another strip in series. You shouldn't even power this single string from only one end. If you want full brightness (which makes them run hotter) you need to bring power to the strip every meter... not just at one end. Kudos to HitLights for knowing all this, boos to the entire industry for producing strips too thin to work without auxiliary wiring.4Open Kitchen Shelf LightingWe used these to install lighting into 100+ year old barn wood shelves we created for our kitchen remodel.We routed the wood and installed KLUS aluminium LED channels for a clean look, Klus B3775 - 39.4 in. Anodized Aluminum Mounting Channel - Micro - K Profile - For LED Tape LightWe used a light defusing cover.We also chose to perform the electrical installation using a Magnetic Driver, 12V Dimmable LED Driver - For Constant Voltage Products Only - Min/Max LED Wattage 100W - Driver Input 120V - Magnitude M100L12DC-AR, to hook it to a standard 110v power.We also used a Lutron dimmer, Lutron PD-5NE-WH Caseta Wireless Electronic Low Voltage In-Wall Dimmer, White, to ensure we could dim the led lights and control them using voice commands to both Siri and Alexa.Final Thoughts:They get much hotter than expected for LED lights. Consider using a Aluminium channel to protect what you attach them to. Also the use of the Magnetic Driver and Lutron switch made the whole thing perfect. Color of the LED was spot on to other ~3000k lights. Very pleased with the final result.5Very DissapointedIf you want to pay twice the price for a light that puts out about half the light but at the same current draw, then this can work for you. They called this a soft white but, I would call it a triple soft white at best (non-white, gold looking). The ad claims a power level of 48W where my measurements show it to only be 1.7 Watt/ft or 27 Watts total at 12V.Yes they doubled the number of LED's but, what they didn't tell you was that they are only about 1/4 the size of the others (5630, 5550, etc). Just be aware, you are paying about twice the price but getting about half the light output as conpaired to the 5630 white.Also, if you are concerned about efficiency (Lumens output per Watt), I would recommend something like the 5630 white. Do not buy from DAZZLEWER LLC, however, as their ad is incorrect. Their ad says white but they ship cool white which is a bluish white.2Some notes on how to install theseOverall, these are a very good product, and at this price a great value. I replaced T5 fluorescent lights both above and below cabinets in my home office, using these LED's and driver/transformers from Eversale.Some things to note:* While they don't produce as many lumens per foot as the fluorescents, they are effectively at least as bright. Since fluorescent tubes radiate 360 degrees, much of their light is wasted shining on the fixture. LED's radiate in an arc of about 120 degrees - perfect for washing a wall or desktop with light.* The very yellow color in some of the pictures of an illuminated roll is actually due to the caramel color of the tape itself. The light is much whiter when it's unrolled and not shining through the tape. A nice warm, but not overly yellow or green color.* These are "double density" - twice as many LED's per foot as the more usual 300 LED strips.Gives you more light, but the downside is the connectors made for such strips don't work, since the LED's are spaced too closely together.Edit: While I didn't realize it at the time, turns out you *can* use connectors on these double density strips - see the comment below by "Kowalski".If you need to jump over a longer space or for some other reasons a connector won't work, you're stuck with soldering wires to connect the pieces - a task that requires skill and a steady hand.* Re soldering: The solder pads are covered with a protective material that must be scraped off before they will "wet".* Re polarity: There are lots of negative reviews for LED strip connectors (again, these don't work on this product as discussed above,) complaining about the fact that sometimes the positive/negative polarity is "wrong". Think about it: If when standing beside the strip, positive is away from you and negative is nearer you, then the left end of the strip will have positive on the left, and the right end will have positive on the right. Not the connector's fault, just simple geometry. Same applies of course if you solder wires rather than use a connector.* If you do need to create a jumper to connect two pieces, turn a corner, etc. 20 gauge stranded wire (Radio Shack) is about the biggest you can actually solder to the tiny little pads. I've computed the voltage drop for this wire, and it's a few tens of millivolts for a several-foot run, so no worse than the tape itself.* There are many Chinese companies that make combination aluminum track and polycarbonate covers for LED strip lights. I thought these would be expensive, and looked hard for an all-plastic solution. When I actually priced them though, the aluminum track was cheaper per foot than the plastic cover! Haven't pulled the trigger on this yet - my lights are affixed with masking tape so far. Please comment on this if you've used any of the mounting systems.Hope this is helpful!4Fantastic purchaseI had about a dozen fluorescent fixtures in my RV and hated the dim, ugly way it lit up the interior of the RV. I wound up gutting the fixtures and ran two strips of the LED lights in each fixture. I used silicone, instead of the built-in self-adhesive tape, and the silicone worked great. I also drilled holes and added three small nylon ties to each strip, for extra support. I elected to solder wire to each strip, instead of buying the connectors. Using a fine tip soldering iron, and a pair of magnifying glasses, made the soldering an easy job. There is no covering on the solder tabs to remove, as I believe there are on LEDs for exterior use. Anyway, the amount of light these things put out is amazing. I'd say if I used only one strip in each, instead of two, it would have given more light that the original two bulb fluorescent fixture. The warm white tone really enhanced the RV's interior, and I'm glad I went with the 3000k color temp. BTW, I wound up buying a second spool, and plan on using it for other projects.5Great LED's for under-cabinet lightingAfter remodeling my kitchen, I wanted to update from halogen under-cabinet lights to LED's. I have never used LED's before so I did some research locally and on-line on LED's. In the past, I used self-contained halogen lights which were wired in series. Each light fixture had it's own power transformer and I hard wired these lights to 110v. Well, technology has improved quite a bit and I took the plunge on these LED lights. I purchased the HitLights 3,000K LEDs, along with one of their 12v power converters. I also purchased aluminum channels with diffuser covers on Amazon for mounting purposes. I used the 3,000K LEDs since they matched the color tone of my overhead LED lights. The results were spectacular. LED's are noise free and heat-free and give off a beautiful, natural light. The more I researched LED's the more willing I was to give the HitLights brand a try. HitLights has a great website which provides good instructions on how to select and install LEDs. Their prices are very reasonable too. I found that LED prices vary quite a bit depending upon who you purchase them from. Local lighting stores priced their LED's by the foot and were much more expensive than the HitLights. HitLights also had a much wider variety of widths and color tones.After looking at a number of manufacturers lights, it almost appears as though these LED are almost generic. It would not surprise me to learn that all the LED's I looked at, regardless of brand, were manufactured in the same Chinese factory, they are so similar. Anyway, I was very happy with the HitLights and would purchase them again.5Great lights but tedius to install Five stars for the lights themselves. Our first set we installed two years ago are still shining brightly with no dead LEDs. We found it impossible to remove protective backing on the adhesive when installing. As before, we used double sided carpet tape on old Venetian blind slats. (Over the kitchen cabinets installation). Just mounted the light strips on the slats and laid the slats on top of the cabinets. This works like a charm. These lights "wash" the wall above the cabinets with nice even light.By the way, we tried using those connector wires (connecting a cut string with another ) - with zero luck. They are cheap stuff and don't work. Tried four different ones. Save your money!! 5Works perfectly. Works great. Worked with their tech support to get this going and they were also great. The premium strips do really well joining into their premade joiners. They slip right in and do a small click into place so you know its working. Pretty easy. They come on pretty much instantly. I coupled this with a bunch of the premade connectors, one of their inline dimmers and a transformer from them. I mounted them underneath my deck railing within a channel and then put it all on a timer. They look awesome. The only downside is that I am not sure I'd call them warm white - they are pretty white. I have some other LED lights in the yard which are far more yellow in tone. But its a small complaint - overall, I'd highly recommend. 5Do as I say, not as I did and you'll love themLove the lights, but putting them up took much longer than we expected. Mistake #1 I ignored bad reviews of the clips that you can attach to turn corners & ordered them. My first problem came when I cut all the strips first only to discover after that the HD lights have to be cut differently to fit in the clips because the LEDs are too close to close the clips (you have to waste about an inch of lights for each cut) so I then made mistake #2 and ordered another set of lights so I could cut them to fit. As soon as I hooked up the first turn with a clip the lights had a faint flicker. I tried multiple clips with the same result. Soooo, in the trash the clips all went. (Didn't need those extra lights after all) Mistake #3 we pre drilled holes in the cabinets big enough all the clips could go through & ended up only needing holes big enough for wire & the LED strip because I ended up buying a small Soldering tool & wire and taught myself how to solder. I should have done this in the first place! I Put a small piece of electrical tape around the connection where I soldered so when I pulled it through the cabinets it didn't come undone. Watch YouTube Videos & practice with scrap pieces it takes some practice but you'll get it. Hopefully this review helps someone out there not make the same mistakes I did! I love the lights & they look great now that we finally got them up.5wattage spec is wrong if you wire only one end, not as "warm" as other 3000k stripsUPDATE 3: Product description and packaging are in the 44-48W range, which matches my recent measurement. I powered one end and observed 2.8A (33W), but when connecting both ends I observed 3.8A (46W). Raised my rating based on truth in advertising! Just remember you can't power more than 6-8 feet of this strip at a time. If you need the full strip, power both ends and consider adding a power tap to the middle. You'll see the difference!UPDATE 2: Seller convinced me to buy another one of their products (item B07SWZFMJJ - see detailed review there), warmer white at 2700K, which is rated at 48W. I found that connecting both ends DID increase current by 50%, and when connected that way the power WAS as rated and the lights really were brighter. Raising this review to 4 stars, still holding one back because they don't say in the product description that you can't power this strip from one end. (In fact, they provide connectors which imply you can connect two strips in series.) The entire industry is messing up by producing strips too thin to work without auxiliary wiring.UPDATE 1: Seller contacted me based on this review, and indicated that to get full power you have to supply wires to BOTH ENDS of the strip. The instructions don't say that and I've already returned the product so I can't test. The idea is that the resistance of the strip itself is too high to supply power along the strip, which isn't a good design choice! Beyond that, they clarified that the wattage rating is for the power supply, not the wattage used by the LED strip. I'll give them one more star for trying, but as long as the product description doesn't match the packaging and neither reflects what the device uses, I can't go higher than that.The product description says 48W, the packaging says 4.4W/m*16.4m=72W, the actual light strip draws 3.1A at 12V... which means it's only 37 watts. In other words, it's HALF the power the packaging says it is. It's also more blue than other 3000k LED strips. Item B00YMW4HME, from LEDMY, is also specified to draw 72W but actually draws 45W and is a warmer light than this one from Hitlights. Be sure to over-design your power supply by a factor of two because many of them will burn up at their rated power.PROS: It's narrower than other strips, so you can double up for more light. It's got smaller emitters closer together so it might throw less of a "dot" pattern than the larger emitters.5Looks great! Be sure to use high-density connectors.When we first decided to install these under-cabinet light strips, I came to Amazon and purchased one of the inexpensive HitLights Standard Density Light Strips.The install was pretty easy; but, it just wasn't bright enough - even on the brightest setting. Honestly, the dimming option was almost wasted on those standard density strips.At that point, I went back to the drawing board and discovered these double density strips - which has turned out to be an excellent choice! The brightness range is far greater than the single density strips.Since I went through the install twice, here are some things I learned:1) There are lots of options for using a DC dimmer with these lights; but, since I wanted to use an AC dimmer switch, I ended up using the HitLights Dimmable LED Light Strip Driver.The reason I wanted an AC dimmer is so I could hook this up to a Lutron Caseta dimmer switch. That switch, together with the Lutron Smart Bridge, allows me to program these under-counter lights to turn on automatically at sunset. A couple of hours later, they automatically dim so they don't seem too bright when we're watching TV. Honestly, the remote control options make these light strips really cool!2) It's not obvious from the product page; but, if you're going to hook multiple strips together, be sure to use the HitLights High Density Connectors. They ship in 4 packs - and the standard density connectors won't work very well with these strips.The connectors are great for going around corners because these strips can be cut every couple of inches and then reconnected to go easily around corners.3) On my first attempt, I just used the adhesive to attach these strips; but, it works far better to use aluminum channels. The lights stay put better with the channels and the installation looks better as well. A plastic light diffuser also comes with many of the channels that makes the light spread out better - and minimizes reflection off the counter tops.The only downside to using the channels is the additional cost. :)At the end of the day, these lights are excellent! If you're looking for flexible under-counter lighting that looks great, look no further than these light strips!5Too much flicker - but poor information/marketing information as it s out of date I liked the quality of the LED strip itself - BUT I hated that I spent so much time when into validating information about the product: what was compatable and what was not compatible, old information was contained in their movies, etc... These lights worked GREAT when I soldered the connection - all the other snap connections caused flicker and wasted at least 2 full days of labor.By the way, we install A LOT of smart home products and wanted to let everyone know these are not compatiable with the GE z-wave smart light/dimmer switches. Hope they change this soon.Update: also tried using a Lutron Casa dimmer - still LOTS of flicker. Note - I use their regular lights (not high density) with many smart home switches - and they work like a champ. It s something about these that cause the flicker issues.1I wish I knew about these earlier I have wanted to do an under cabinet lighting system in my kitchen for years, but the cost of buying so many puck lights or light bars always killed the idea. After seeing these I was hopeful it would be a quick fix to get what my wife has been bugging me for.The install took less than a half an hour and my wife absolutely loves them. I am looking at every lighting project differently now because this option is so simple and highly cost effective.Major Kudos to the manufacturer and retailer. 5
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Reviews

Customer Reviews

Great LED Strips for Outdoor I purchased 3 sets of these lights and the 60 watt outdoor power supplies for a Christmas tree star. They worked great, but I only gave then 4 stars becuase one of the connectors had a cold solder joint (didnt make an electrical connection). I was able to fix this but not everyone might be handy with a soldering iron.Each year my family works to find, cut down, haul, standup and install the Christmas tree and lights for our County. We shoot for a 35ft tall spruce. The first year we did this, 2012, the county didn't have a star... so I welded one up for the next year and it is about 5 ft point to point. A Christmas tree has to have something on the top!I was never happy with how the lights turned out though, I used 4 strands of white large bulbed lights, like your put on an outdoor tree or around your eaves. They weren't bright enough, and they weren't crisp. The LEDs changed that this year.Check the pictures to see the star in action, it was even bright during the day. I would buy these again, just make sure you power them up before taking them off the reel or installing them. 4do not connect just one endMinus one star because product description omits this very important detail: YOU CAN'T USE THE STRIP TO POWER THE LEDS! I complained that HitLights LED strips don't draw the rated power, and they responded that I only wired to one end. The copper is too thin to provide power to the far end of the strip. Wow. I never thought of that. But it's true. I used a good 10A digital meter to check when powering one end (3.1A) vs. both ends (4.5A). Sure enough, there's a huge difference. Cutting into 1' lengths and using thicker wire to separately power each length would make them even brighter and consume even more power.My power readings were with hard-wired connections from a robust power supply (150W in my case). Using a supply with less than a 200% rating probably won't work. Adding connectors will KILL you. I tried powering the two ends with a factory-made Y splitter, and lost 0.7A. That one extra connection, and the thin wire inside the splitter, measures around 0.2 ohms of resistance. At 5 amps that's a volt off your 12V supply... and these strips are NOT regulated against changes in voltage. Solder everything, use thick wire, and jumper that thick wire into the midpoint of your LED strips.Yes, this string has connectors at both ends, but you're a fool if you connect another strip in series. You shouldn't even power this single string from only one end. If you want full brightness (which makes them run hotter) you need to bring power to the strip every meter... not just at one end. Kudos to HitLights for knowing all this, boos to the entire industry for producing strips too thin to work without auxiliary wiring.4Open Kitchen Shelf LightingWe used these to install lighting into 100+ year old barn wood shelves we created for our kitchen remodel.We routed the wood and installed KLUS aluminium LED channels for a clean look, Klus B3775 - 39.4 in. Anodized Aluminum Mounting Channel - Micro - K Profile - For LED Tape LightWe used a light defusing cover.We also chose to perform the electrical installation using a Magnetic Driver, 12V Dimmable LED Driver - For Constant Voltage Products Only - Min/Max LED Wattage 100W - Driver Input 120V - Magnitude M100L12DC-AR, to hook it to a standard 110v power.We also used a Lutron dimmer, Lutron PD-5NE-WH Caseta Wireless Electronic Low Voltage In-Wall Dimmer, White, to ensure we could dim the led lights and control them using voice commands to both Siri and Alexa.Final Thoughts:They get much hotter than expected for LED lights. Consider using a Aluminium channel to protect what you attach them to. Also the use of the Magnetic Driver and Lutron switch made the whole thing perfect. Color of the LED was spot on to other ~3000k lights. Very pleased with the final result.5Very DissapointedIf you want to pay twice the price for a light that puts out about half the light but at the same current draw, then this can work for you. They called this a soft white but, I would call it a triple soft white at best (non-white, gold looking). The ad claims a power level of 48W where my measurements show it to only be 1.7 Watt/ft or 27 Watts total at 12V.Yes they doubled the number of LED's but, what they didn't tell you was that they are only about 1/4 the size of the others (5630, 5550, etc). Just be aware, you are paying about twice the price but getting about half the light output as conpaired to the 5630 white.Also, if you are concerned about efficiency (Lumens output per Watt), I would recommend something like the 5630 white. Do not buy from DAZZLEWER LLC, however, as their ad is incorrect. Their ad says white but they ship cool white which is a bluish white.2Some notes on how to install theseOverall, these are a very good product, and at this price a great value. I replaced T5 fluorescent lights both above and below cabinets in my home office, using these LED's and driver/transformers from Eversale.Some things to note:* While they don't produce as many lumens per foot as the fluorescents, they are effectively at least as bright. Since fluorescent tubes radiate 360 degrees, much of their light is wasted shining on the fixture. LED's radiate in an arc of about 120 degrees - perfect for washing a wall or desktop with light.* The very yellow color in some of the pictures of an illuminated roll is actually due to the caramel color of the tape itself. The light is much whiter when it's unrolled and not shining through the tape. A nice warm, but not overly yellow or green color.* These are "double density" - twice as many LED's per foot as the more usual 300 LED strips.Gives you more light, but the downside is the connectors made for such strips don't work, since the LED's are spaced too closely together.Edit: While I didn't realize it at the time, turns out you *can* use connectors on these double density strips - see the comment below by "Kowalski".If you need to jump over a longer space or for some other reasons a connector won't work, you're stuck with soldering wires to connect the pieces - a task that requires skill and a steady hand.* Re soldering: The solder pads are covered with a protective material that must be scraped off before they will "wet".* Re polarity: There are lots of negative reviews for LED strip connectors (again, these don't work on this product as discussed above,) complaining about the fact that sometimes the positive/negative polarity is "wrong". Think about it: If when standing beside the strip, positive is away from you and negative is nearer you, then the left end of the strip will have positive on the left, and the right end will have positive on the right. Not the connector's fault, just simple geometry. Same applies of course if you solder wires rather than use a connector.* If you do need to create a jumper to connect two pieces, turn a corner, etc. 20 gauge stranded wire (Radio Shack) is about the biggest you can actually solder to the tiny little pads. I've computed the voltage drop for this wire, and it's a few tens of millivolts for a several-foot run, so no worse than the tape itself.* There are many Chinese companies that make combination aluminum track and polycarbonate covers for LED strip lights. I thought these would be expensive, and looked hard for an all-plastic solution. When I actually priced them though, the aluminum track was cheaper per foot than the plastic cover! Haven't pulled the trigger on this yet - my lights are affixed with masking tape so far. Please comment on this if you've used any of the mounting systems.Hope this is helpful!4Fantastic purchaseI had about a dozen fluorescent fixtures in my RV and hated the dim, ugly way it lit up the interior of the RV. I wound up gutting the fixtures and ran two strips of the LED lights in each fixture. I used silicone, instead of the built-in self-adhesive tape, and the silicone worked great. I also drilled holes and added three small nylon ties to each strip, for extra support. I elected to solder wire to each strip, instead of buying the connectors. Using a fine tip soldering iron, and a pair of magnifying glasses, made the soldering an easy job. There is no covering on the solder tabs to remove, as I believe there are on LEDs for exterior use. Anyway, the amount of light these things put out is amazing. I'd say if I used only one strip in each, instead of two, it would have given more light that the original two bulb fluorescent fixture. The warm white tone really enhanced the RV's interior, and I'm glad I went with the 3000k color temp. BTW, I wound up buying a second spool, and plan on using it for other projects.5Great LED's for under-cabinet lightingAfter remodeling my kitchen, I wanted to update from halogen under-cabinet lights to LED's. I have never used LED's before so I did some research locally and on-line on LED's. In the past, I used self-contained halogen lights which were wired in series. Each light fixture had it's own power transformer and I hard wired these lights to 110v. Well, technology has improved quite a bit and I took the plunge on these LED lights. I purchased the HitLights 3,000K LEDs, along with one of their 12v power converters. I also purchased aluminum channels with diffuser covers on Amazon for mounting purposes. I used the 3,000K LEDs since they matched the color tone of my overhead LED lights. The results were spectacular. LED's are noise free and heat-free and give off a beautiful, natural light. The more I researched LED's the more willing I was to give the HitLights brand a try. HitLights has a great website which provides good instructions on how to select and install LEDs. Their prices are very reasonable too. I found that LED prices vary quite a bit depending upon who you purchase them from. Local lighting stores priced their LED's by the foot and were much more expensive than the HitLights. HitLights also had a much wider variety of widths and color tones.After looking at a number of manufacturers lights, it almost appears as though these LED are almost generic. It would not surprise me to learn that all the LED's I looked at, regardless of brand, were manufactured in the same Chinese factory, they are so similar. Anyway, I was very happy with the HitLights and would purchase them again.5Great lights but tedius to install Five stars for the lights themselves. Our first set we installed two years ago are still shining brightly with no dead LEDs. We found it impossible to remove protective backing on the adhesive when installing. As before, we used double sided carpet tape on old Venetian blind slats. (Over the kitchen cabinets installation). Just mounted the light strips on the slats and laid the slats on top of the cabinets. This works like a charm. These lights "wash" the wall above the cabinets with nice even light.By the way, we tried using those connector wires (connecting a cut string with another ) - with zero luck. They are cheap stuff and don't work. Tried four different ones. Save your money!! 5Works perfectly. Works great. Worked with their tech support to get this going and they were also great. The premium strips do really well joining into their premade joiners. They slip right in and do a small click into place so you know its working. Pretty easy. They come on pretty much instantly. I coupled this with a bunch of the premade connectors, one of their inline dimmers and a transformer from them. I mounted them underneath my deck railing within a channel and then put it all on a timer. They look awesome. The only downside is that I am not sure I'd call them warm white - they are pretty white. I have some other LED lights in the yard which are far more yellow in tone. But its a small complaint - overall, I'd highly recommend. 5Do as I say, not as I did and you'll love themLove the lights, but putting them up took much longer than we expected. Mistake #1 I ignored bad reviews of the clips that you can attach to turn corners & ordered them. My first problem came when I cut all the strips first only to discover after that the HD lights have to be cut differently to fit in the clips because the LEDs are too close to close the clips (you have to waste about an inch of lights for each cut) so I then made mistake #2 and ordered another set of lights so I could cut them to fit. As soon as I hooked up the first turn with a clip the lights had a faint flicker. I tried multiple clips with the same result. Soooo, in the trash the clips all went. (Didn't need those extra lights after all) Mistake #3 we pre drilled holes in the cabinets big enough all the clips could go through & ended up only needing holes big enough for wire & the LED strip because I ended up buying a small Soldering tool & wire and taught myself how to solder. I should have done this in the first place! I Put a small piece of electrical tape around the connection where I soldered so when I pulled it through the cabinets it didn't come undone. Watch YouTube Videos & practice with scrap pieces it takes some practice but you'll get it. Hopefully this review helps someone out there not make the same mistakes I did! I love the lights & they look great now that we finally got them up.5wattage spec is wrong if you wire only one end, not as "warm" as other 3000k stripsUPDATE 3: Product description and packaging are in the 44-48W range, which matches my recent measurement. I powered one end and observed 2.8A (33W), but when connecting both ends I observed 3.8A (46W). Raised my rating based on truth in advertising! Just remember you can't power more than 6-8 feet of this strip at a time. If you need the full strip, power both ends and consider adding a power tap to the middle. You'll see the difference!UPDATE 2: Seller convinced me to buy another one of their products (item B07SWZFMJJ - see detailed review there), warmer white at 2700K, which is rated at 48W. I found that connecting both ends DID increase current by 50%, and when connected that way the power WAS as rated and the lights really were brighter. Raising this review to 4 stars, still holding one back because they don't say in the product description that you can't power this strip from one end. (In fact, they provide connectors which imply you can connect two strips in series.) The entire industry is messing up by producing strips too thin to work without auxiliary wiring.UPDATE 1: Seller contacted me based on this review, and indicated that to get full power you have to supply wires to BOTH ENDS of the strip. The instructions don't say that and I've already returned the product so I can't test. The idea is that the resistance of the strip itself is too high to supply power along the strip, which isn't a good design choice! Beyond that, they clarified that the wattage rating is for the power supply, not the wattage used by the LED strip. I'll give them one more star for trying, but as long as the product description doesn't match the packaging and neither reflects what the device uses, I can't go higher than that.The product description says 48W, the packaging says 4.4W/m*16.4m=72W, the actual light strip draws 3.1A at 12V... which means it's only 37 watts. In other words, it's HALF the power the packaging says it is. It's also more blue than other 3000k LED strips. Item B00YMW4HME, from LEDMY, is also specified to draw 72W but actually draws 45W and is a warmer light than this one from Hitlights. Be sure to over-design your power supply by a factor of two because many of them will burn up at their rated power.PROS: It's narrower than other strips, so you can double up for more light. It's got smaller emitters closer together so it might throw less of a "dot" pattern than the larger emitters.5Looks great! Be sure to use high-density connectors.When we first decided to install these under-cabinet light strips, I came to Amazon and purchased one of the inexpensive HitLights Standard Density Light Strips.The install was pretty easy; but, it just wasn't bright enough - even on the brightest setting. Honestly, the dimming option was almost wasted on those standard density strips.At that point, I went back to the drawing board and discovered these double density strips - which has turned out to be an excellent choice! The brightness range is far greater than the single density strips.Since I went through the install twice, here are some things I learned:1) There are lots of options for using a DC dimmer with these lights; but, since I wanted to use an AC dimmer switch, I ended up using the HitLights Dimmable LED Light Strip Driver.The reason I wanted an AC dimmer is so I could hook this up to a Lutron Caseta dimmer switch. That switch, together with the Lutron Smart Bridge, allows me to program these under-counter lights to turn on automatically at sunset. A couple of hours later, they automatically dim so they don't seem too bright when we're watching TV. Honestly, the remote control options make these light strips really cool!2) It's not obvious from the product page; but, if you're going to hook multiple strips together, be sure to use the HitLights High Density Connectors. They ship in 4 packs - and the standard density connectors won't work very well with these strips.The connectors are great for going around corners because these strips can be cut every couple of inches and then reconnected to go easily around corners.3) On my first attempt, I just used the adhesive to attach these strips; but, it works far better to use aluminum channels. The lights stay put better with the channels and the installation looks better as well. A plastic light diffuser also comes with many of the channels that makes the light spread out better - and minimizes reflection off the counter tops.The only downside to using the channels is the additional cost. :)At the end of the day, these lights are excellent! If you're looking for flexible under-counter lighting that looks great, look no further than these light strips!5Too much flicker - but poor information/marketing information as it s out of date I liked the quality of the LED strip itself - BUT I hated that I spent so much time when into validating information about the product: what was compatable and what was not compatible, old information was contained in their movies, etc... These lights worked GREAT when I soldered the connection - all the other snap connections caused flicker and wasted at least 2 full days of labor.By the way, we install A LOT of smart home products and wanted to let everyone know these are not compatiable with the GE z-wave smart light/dimmer switches. Hope they change this soon.Update: also tried using a Lutron Casa dimmer - still LOTS of flicker. Note - I use their regular lights (not high density) with many smart home switches - and they work like a champ. It s something about these that cause the flicker issues.1I wish I knew about these earlier I have wanted to do an under cabinet lighting system in my kitchen for years, but the cost of buying so many puck lights or light bars always killed the idea. After seeing these I was hopeful it would be a quick fix to get what my wife has been bugging me for.The install took less than a half an hour and my wife absolutely loves them. I am looking at every lighting project differently now because this option is so simple and highly cost effective.Major Kudos to the manufacturer and retailer. 5
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